(Paris) Dior extended its Olympic glory by presenting an athletic collection for its spring/summer 2025 show on Tuesday, when Saint Laurent took Paris back to 1985 with ultra-realistic mini “Yves”s.
Tall, lanky frames, lost looks behind their iconic square glasses, bodies wrapped with flawless chic in precious fabric: an army of women in Yves, 1980s version paraded down Rue de Bellechasse.
A look for which “sophistication must coexist with instinct,” explains designer Anthony Vaccarello in his note.
A gray, beige, loose-fitting men’s suit and tie, with a Camel leather jacket, the brand’s flagship piece, the woman in this collection is no longer in naked transparency like the last one, but as if in androgynous armor, which gives her confidence.
The show was exceptionally organized at the headquarters of the fashion house with stars in the front row such as Lenny Kravitz and Beatrice Dalle, Catherine Deneuve and Kate Moss, Charlotte Gainsbourg and Carla Bruni and Virginie Efira.
Here, there is no question of starlets or “perfect and seductive muses”, but of something dark, full of contradictions and flaws, the note details.
Asymmetry
At Dior, women also want to be comfortable and above all not precious.
The common thread of this show was the figure of the Amazon, a tribute to the dress of the same name designed by Christian Dior in 1951 and a mythological figure of a powerful woman.
PHOTO JOHANNA GERON, REUTERS
The collection is athletic, modern and technological, and all in black and white.
Dresses, blouses and tops bare one shoulder and cover the other.
Asymmetry is becoming the rule, bringing a very 2000s touch that will please younger customers, as this trend has been going strong since 2020.
The sportswear is found with jerseys, motorcycle jackets and parachute pants, strapped and zipped in a very elaborate manner.
The artistic director of the women’s lines, Maria Grazia Chiuri, says she wants to “summarize the meaning of the garment, as if each model could speak and reveal the work that precedes the construction of each piece.”
The result is a resolutely graphic collection that plays on the contrast between black and white.
The “Miss Dior” logo, increasingly omnipresent in the brand’s creations, is found to be exaggeratedly central, stretched to the extreme almost to form a series of lines.
Some evening dresses with a more precious spirit appear in flesh-colored veiling or beading, like a veil ” nude » also inspired by the figure of the Amazons, a tribe of women with a matriarchal functioning.
Also note the disappearance of the heel by flat and flexible thigh boots.
Dior has been given an unrivaled platform during the Paris Olympics this summer, with its parent company LVMH being a major partner of the event.
During the opening ceremony, Celine Dion made her grand return to singing in a Dior dress with sparkling pearls, while Lady Gaga was wrapped in a black and pink outfit in the spirit of cabaret and Aya Nakamura in a gold mini-dress with a “J’adore” aesthetic (a perfume from the brand).
Tutti Frutti at Germanier
To extend the moment, Chiuri had asked performer SAGG Napoli, an artist who uses archery in her work, to perform in the show space on Tuesday.
In the front row, France’s “first lady” Brigitte Macron, actresses Natalie Portman and Rosamund Pike, singers Aya Nakamura, Yseult and Jisoo watched in admiration as she emptied her quiver.
But these feats do not make the luxury giant forget the inexorable global slowdown.
The young designer Kévin Germanier, seen at the Olympic Games, continued the festivities with a collection that was as always very colorful and beaded in a refreshing “cocktail stick” spirit and always in upcycled materials.
“Humour and a sense of difference are important in this profession,” insists the designer, recalling that he “makes dresses with feathers and sequins.