See the country | The river at whale height

Marine mammals were active early this season in the Saguenay–St. Lawrence Marine Park. To the great delight of the dozens of visitors who meet them every day aboard sea kayaks on the Haute-Côte-Nord. Story of a day on the river.

Simon Chabot
The Press

(Les Bergeronnes) The southwest wind is picking up strength on this blue-sky morning over the St. Lawrence estuary. Thierry and Chloé, two guides from Mer et monde ecotours, have therefore decided to start the day facing him, just to take advantage of the fresh arms of the small group of kayakers for the day.

As soon as you leave the Cave cove, the waves make the kayaks dance. The arms are hot. The day promises to be sporty.

But all is forgotten a few moments later when a minke whale surfaces, a few meters from one of the boats, which nevertheless skirt the shore. “It comes close to the coast to trap its prey, explains Thierry. Did you see his mouth? »

After briefly resurfacing, the 5 or 6 m long whale dives for good. And the paddle ball resumes.

Past Cap de Bon-Désir, the kayaks take shelter from the swell in the Théophile flat. The water is barely deep enough, but the rising tide opens the passage to the beach, over there, which you have to earn by the oil of arm for dinner. Along the way, we come across a harbor seal, which will no doubt want to take advantage of the high tide to perch on a rock, believes Thierry.

The guide has picked a sea urchin and offers upon arrival on the bank to taste its orange gonads, with a strong iodized taste. The unique flavor of the invertebrate is not for everyone, but everyone will have enough to eat; a box lunch is provided to participants, who then share a raspberry tart reheated on the campfire. Who says better ?

Before boarding to go home, Thierry makes a prediction: “It’s the perfect weather to see belugas. » As a matter of fact, a band of white whales comes soon after to have fun not far from our kayaks, while the tail wind carries us. A perfect conclusion for this excursion. “We never guarantee sightings, says Chloé, but we always see quite a few whales! »

A popular activity

Mer et monde écotours hired 13 guides this summer. “This is one of our biggest years on the personnel side,” explains David Bédard, Operations Coordinator. We have been in high demand in recent years with the pandemic, so we have planned for it. »

Most visitors opt for a half-day outing, with three daily departures from Les Bergeronnes (and more when the tides permit in Tadoussac Bay). Some outings also start at 5 a.m., “before the wind picks up”. Or in the evening, to observe the phenomenon of plankton bioluminescence.

Mer et monde is also starting to test these days an excursion that includes an overnight stay.

Other companies offer outings in the area. Among them, Kayaks du Paradis and Tadoussac differently, in the estuary, as well as Fjord en kayak and Ferme 5 étoiles on the side of the Saguenay fjord. “There is plenty of room for everyone,” reassures David Bédard.

And unlike the past two summers, visitors aren’t having too much trouble booking an excursion with just a few days notice.

Mammals at the rendezvous

Marine wildlife was active early in the season in the Saguenay-St. Lawrence Marine Park, after an exceptional year in 2021. In June, groups of dozens of belugas were seen in the area, including newborns. During our visit at the end of the month, the porpoises were having a great time near the Essipit coast. Humpback whales are also already present.

“We had a hasty start, but in the estuary, we have returned to a normal situation,” notes Robert Michaud, president of the Group for Research and Education on Marine Mammals in Tadoussac.

Difficult to explain why the number of observations varies so, continues Mr. Michaud. Except for humpback whales, a species known for its spectacular jumps, whose world population is growing. “From 1983 to 1999, there was only one humpback whale in the estuary,” he says. But in recent years, there are 30 or 40 who frequent the marine park. Last year we had 110.

It promises for the future !