Sancerre “Madeleine” 2018, Paul Cherrier, Loire, France

The sounds here are perched so high that they give the impression of a hummingbird swaying you with its piccolo until your eardrums burst. Beyond the image, a great dry white from the terroir, both wildly aromatic (peach, lemon, verbena), ample and persistent under its deep, powerful sap and long finish. (5+)

Explanation of odds

The Canon

★★★ 1/2

Sancerre “Madeleine” 2018, Paul Cherrier, Loire, France ($47.25 — 13448031)

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