This text is part of the special book Plaisirs
Wrapped in waxed paper, fragrant and fluffy, Sainte-Catherine taffy makes its appearance each year towards the end of November. Its popularity tends to decline from year to year, but its history is as rich and tasty as the candy itself. A tradition to (re)discover… and bring back to life as a family.
The candy that sticks to the teeth would have been imagined as early as the XVIIe century by Marguerite Bourgeoys to attract French and Aboriginal children to her school, the first to be founded on Montreal soil. “It’s not really his invention, but rather a contribution on his part, since stretched sugar confectionery already existed in France and elsewhere in Europe. They were made with brown sugar, which we call “brown sugar” today – it is a kind of sugar whose refining is not finished, explains the historian Jean-Marie Francoeur. Marguerite Bourgeoys probably had access to this recipe because she had contacts in bourgeois families, who were well off, and she brought this recipe to New France. »
Sugar was still a luxury product at the time, and confectionery was the prerogative of the elite. “What wasn’t expensive was molasses. The French have always shunned molasses, and moreover, this is still the case today – it is considered to be vulgar, popular”, explains the historian. On their way to France, commercial ships from the West Indian sugar cane plantations deposited barrels of molasses in New France. It is the incorporation of this thick, dark syrup, a by-product of the sugar refining process, that gives Sainte-Catherine taffy its unique taste — and sets it apart from stretched sugar confections of the Old Continent.
Also, unlike today’s recipes, early versions of taffy did not contain baking soda. It is in the XIXe century that this ingredient was added — along with a measure of vinegar — to preserve the tenderness of the candy. “Originally, it contained brown sugar, molasses, butter. That is just about everything. It was much more brittle, not soft like today’s recipes”, specifies Jean-Marie Francoeur.
A popular festival
The story does not say if Marguerite Bourgeoys’ sweet bait fills the classes with overexcited children, but one thing is certain: the custom of eating it has indeed taken root in the school environment. “The nuns have introduced the tradition in all schools to celebrate Saint Catherine,” says Mr. Francoeur.
Martyrdom of the IVe century, Saint Catherine of Alexandria was learned and strong-headed; the Roman Emperor Maxentius had her executed when she refused to marry him. The generous patronage of this adored saint in several Christian Churches extends in particular to barbers, seamstresses, schoolchildren, notaries and, famously, marriageable girls.
The association of the candy with the holy figure remains nebulous. According to some accounts, Sister Bourgeoys would have opened the doors of her school on November 25, 1658, Saint Catherine’s Day, but historians generally refute this hypothesis. Another lead: since she welcomed the Daughters of the King in her school, the founder would naturally have wished to honor the patroness of young women in search of a husband. Be that as it may, until the secularization of schools in the 1960s, homage was paid to the saint each year with parties, plays and parades – and the consumption of taffy in abundance.
But the image that sticks most lastingly to the Sainte-Catherine taffy, and to the saint she celebrates, is certainly that of the girls to be married, who were once called “old girls” if they reached the age of 25. without a ring on the finger. On November 25, they traditionally wore hats for the occasion to indicate their availability, and evenings of music and song were organized to promote the meeting with a future suitor. The little sweet delicacy was then savored by all the members of the community, and the feast of the saint was an opportunity to make taffy sweets as a family.
Because the recipe lends itself well to teamwork. After mixing and heating the ingredients, the dough is left to cool slightly before stretching it into a long cord and twisting it several times – an operation that is easier to perform in pairs, and traditionally delegated to young people in the household. Gradually, the mixture takes on a beautiful blond and shiny color. You can then cut it into pieces and wrap it in waxed paper. It is also its shiny nugget look that would have earned the taffy its other name, the “clennedaque”, in reference to the gold nests of the Klondike, from which the word is derived, specifies Jean-Marie Francoeur.
A local treasure to rediscover.
Meet at Maison Saint-Gabriel
This special content was produced by the Special Publications team of the To have to, pertaining to marketing. The drafting of To have to did not take part.