Restaurant review | The Dining Cellar: delicious surprise

Through the good times and, sometimes, the not so good, our restaurant critics tell you about their experience, present the team in the dining room and in the kitchen, while explaining what motivated their choice of restaurant. This week: La Cave à manger, a bakery-wine shop to discover in Old Montreal.

Why talk about it?

The place has intrigued me for a while. In the heart of the most touristy sector of Old Montreal – which I generally avoid, not attracted by the souvenir shops and folkloric restaurants – a cute address has sprung up, hidden in a cellar of the Bonsecours Market. The aptly named Cave à Manger, part bakery, part wine shop, part café and part counter, seemed to contain some very appetizing delights. On a beautiful autumn day, while the sun was shining on rue Saint-Paul, I went there to see what was going on… and who was the person behind it all.

Who are they ?

For many, it is a place of passage, of exit, of work. For Raphaël Creton, Old Montreal is first and foremost his home. His father, restaurateur Yvon Creton (who opened Chez Alexandre with his brother Alain in the 1980s), operated the restaurant À L’Aventure there for 30 years, on Place Jacques-Cartier. And the family lived upstairs, at a time when the area was just beginning to develop in terms of restaurants.

In short, Raphaël fell into catering when he was little. “I’ve done all the jobs: bartender, waiter, cook, I made wine lists…” He always came back to the bakery. He began training at the Institut de tourisme et d’hôtellerie du Québec (ITHQ), but rather learned “on the job”, notably with Christian Faure and James McGuire (Passe-Partout). He even worked in a Los Angeles bakery for a few months. During the pandemic, he was a waiter at the Brewsky pub, at Marché Bonsecours. This small room next door, underground, served as a preparation kitchen. He saw potential there and opened his first bakery in 2021, supported by the owners of Brewsky, who gave him carte blanche to bring his vision to fruition.

Our experience

With its pretty wooden terrace with canary yellow parasols and its flight of stairs leading to the bakery’s den, the place is intriguing. Once inside, a small room is revealed. A shelf filled with beautiful bottles divides the space. At the very back, we arrive in front of the pastries counter: croissant (plain, almond, ham and cheese), chocolatine, “cinna grizzle” (flaky cinnamon brioche with Madagascar vanilla icing). These delights are made in an artisanal way. The croissants, without food additives, are made with flour from Moulins De Soulanges and butter from New Zealand, the best there is, according to the baker, who says they take three days to make!

But the undisputed stars of the place are the rolls, decadent children of the croissant and the filled donut. Very cute and round, topped with icing, they come in different flavors, which vary: berries & vanilla, chocolate & caramel, pistachio, lemon… Once sliced, they reveal their creamy filling inside. Very, very easy to become addicted: no wonder this creation helped to raise awareness of La Cave à manger on social networks.

Otherwise, what do we eat in this cellar? The menu is minimalist: sourdough pizza, sold by the slice (which I promise to try next time), plate of charcuterie, bruschetta, banh mi. The ham and butter sandwich is very satisfying, with its generous spread of butter (from New Zealand, again), its fairly thickly sliced ​​white ham, its aged cheddar from Isle-aux-Grues and its small pickles compacted in a crispy baguette .

There are obviously the breads, all sourdough: country bread, baguette, olive or cheddar fougasse. I liked everything I ate – I wish the olive focaccia was softer to the bite. Raphaël’s philosophy is to offer a well-made product: quality before luxury. No gimmicks or endless variations. In short, to make a single type of bread and baguette, but well mastered. Bet accepted!

In our glass

For lovers of natural and Quebec wines, little gems and rarities, the selection at La Cave à Manger is sure to catch the eye – at more than competitive prices, in fact. Thanks to his contacts within several private import agencies, Raphaël is able to get his hands on small, coveted lots. Ciders and beers are also in the spotlight, as well as some cocktails – pastis, spritz, mimosa. A short selection of wines by the glass and beers on tap is offered. On the non-alcoholic side, fresh orange juice helps combat fall spleen, and you can obviously get your daily dose of caffeine (Montreal roaster Toi Moi & Café).

Price

Pastries start at $3.25 (for the croissant) and go up to $9.75 for the famous roll. As for bread, the baguette is $5 and the country bread is $9. A slice of pizza is $6.75, buttered ham is $12.50, bruschetta and banh mi – in limited quantities, always – are priced at $15. Wines by the glass start at $5.

Good to know

The Cellar à Manger is open every day, from 7 a.m. to 8 p.m. You order at the counter to take away or sit on the terrace; there is no table service. With its stairs, the place is not accessible to people with reduced mobility, but the terrace is.

386, rue Saint-Paul Est, Montreal