A new wine bar? Unlike Montreal, Quebec City has not yet been overwhelmed by this new wave. It must be said that Le Bedeau, the new address of chef Arnaud Marchand (Chez Boulay, Le Botaniste, Comptoir Boréal), joined by chef co-owner Pierre Gagnon, evokes more the restaurant than the refreshment bar, refinement than relaxation.
The space on rue Saint-Jean is truly superb: rich materials, numerous details, subdued lighting, not to mention the elements that subtly evoke the liturgical universe, confessional-style grilled walls, a logo representing a chalice, copper organ pipes adorning the mezzanine above the bar, where we slip, ready for all sins.
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PHOTO EDOUARD PLANTE-FRÉCHETTE, THE PRESS
A seasonal plate: burrata and tomatoes, with focaccia in the background
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PHOTO EDOUARD PLANTE-FRÉCHETTE, THE PRESS
Cod fritters, covered in sauce
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PHOTO EDOUARD PLANTE-FRÉCHETTE, THE PRESS
The Bandit, a mezcal cocktail infused with Honey Cheerios, ginger, honey, chili bitters, cocoa and Angostura.
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PHOTO EDOUARD PLANTE-FRÉCHETTE, THE PRESS
The sommelier and director Sébastien Thibeault is in charge of the wine selection.
1/4
First, the divine nectar. With its slogan “Drink it all,” the place wants to make the wine experience accessible to all, and it is based on what is in the glass that the plate is matched. The wine list (by sommelier Sébastien Thibeault) is a beautiful playground, where artisan wines and Quebec wines are in the spotlight.
But first, it’s the cocktails that catch our eye. We are won over by the Apéro sur un nuage, described as powerful, herbaceous and salty. This revisited version of the dirty martini, with its pickle juice espuma, surprises and enchants. A favorite!
Moreover, the cocktail menu, designed by Marine Le Bras, is particularly well-crafted and original: mezcal infused with honey Cheerios in the creation Le Bandit or a lactofermented peach juice with sweet clover and sage-infused olive oil in Le Nid d’espion, a creation based on Ubald gin and white vermouth. Enough to please amateurs who want to be surprised.
Encouraged by our impeccable server (another highlight of the evening was the service, attentive, friendly, relevant), we opted for the full package: the four-course discovery menu, with pairings.
PHOTO EDOUARD PLANTE-FRÉCHETTE, THE PRESS
Part of the Bedeau team: Laure Dutil (hostess), Julien Bontemps (server), Sébastien Thibeault (director and sommelier), Laélia Pereboom (suiteuse), Marine Le Bras (bar manager), Samuel Quenneville (server) and Alex Galant (maître d’hôtel).
Moreover, each main course is suggested with its wine pairing (3 oz) on the menu.
Our wines were generally well matched to the dishes. We were treated to an evening of discoveries and surprises, such as this brut nature rosé, a tempranillo and carignan cava from the Clos Lentiscus house in Catalonia, an explosion of small strawberries in the mouth with a surprising salty side, which I enjoy as an aperitif.
The “tapas” platter as a starter creates some confusion as to the culinary identity of the place. There are Spanish inspirations (a mountain of patatas bravas flirting with poutine, with smoked paprika bravas sauce, aioli and chorizo chips, delicious), Portuguese/Mexican (cod fritters with their tomatillo-habanero salsa verde, good alone, but strange in duo) and Japanese (yakitori of smoked duck hearts with maple glaze, on pan-fried mushrooms, good), not to mention a homemade focaccia with honey and tarragon butter. All served with a very fresh Austrian red, a bold choice, but one that works. Citizens of the world? Why not…
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PHOTO EDOUARD PLANTE-FRÉCHETTE, THE PRESS
The space is really superb.
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PHOTO EDOUARD PLANTE-FRÉCHETTE, THE PRESS
View of the vast cellar and the nods to the liturgical universe
1/2
This robust appetizer is followed by a more refined dish, which takes us somewhere in Mexico: salmon tataki with guacamole, all placed on a tostada and topped with salsa verde and lactofermented currants that burst under the tooth, a nice touch of acidity. To pair, En Su Piel, a 100% macerated wine by García Pérez from Murcia, Spain, all acidity and freshness. It works!
Next comes a land and sea dish, which this time swims more in the waters of classic French cuisine: duck breast and crab claw, with sea urchin espuma. A dish that is all in all well executed, quite tasty, a bit too salty for our taste… But we continue to look for cohesion, from one course to the next.
As a (not too) sweet finale, a tarragon ice cream, topped with its Italian meringue passed through a torch, with a toasted coconut custard… The whole thing reminds us of a mini Alaska bomb and it is frankly very successful. One of our favorite dishes of the evening.
In the end, the question arises: despite the pleasant evening, treated with great care, very well watered and well fed, what exactly do they want to tell us at this magnificent table, fork-wise? The impression that the content does not quite match the container remains, as we leave the restaurant and walk down the lively Rue Saint-Jean, looking for an answer.
Price
PHOTO EDOUARD PLANTE-FRÉCHETTE, THE PRESS
Le Bedeau, with a view of rue Saint-Jean, at the back
From $6 to $22 for “snacks,” which range from focaccia to lobster rolls to oysters; $34 for a plate of 4 cheeses or charcuterie with sides; and $25 to $30 for a main course; $75 for the 4-course discovery menu ($130 with wine pairing). Expect to pay around ten dollars for a 3-oz pairing with your dish, $12 to $20 for a wine by the glass, and $15 to $20 for a cocktail. As for bottles, there’s something for every budget.
Good to know
Le Bedeau has been open for lunch for some time now, from Thursday to Saturday, with a reduced menu.
Information
Open daily from 4 p.m. to 10 p.m., and for dinner Thursday through Saturday from 12 p.m. to 3 p.m.
1098, rue Saint-Jean, Quebec
Visit the Bedeau website