Restaurant review | La Sobremesa: fine Iberian cuisine

Through the good shots and, sometimes, the not so good, our restaurant critics tell you about their experience, introduce the team in the dining room and in the kitchen, while explaining what motivated the choice of the restaurant. This week: La Sobremesa, chef Dany Bolduc’s new restaurant in Westmount.

Iris Gagnon Paradise
The Press

Why talk about it?

There’s a newcomer to Westmount and he seems to have already won the hearts of residents in the neighborhood and beyond. Since last summer, La Sobremesa has occupied premises that were completely renovated a few years ago to accommodate a project then called Léa, and which bears the signature of designer Zébulon Perron. Since then, the space has struggled to find its identity, as Parm, Estiatorio Kavos and Westmount BBQ have succeeded one another. The fine Spanish cuisine of La Sobremesa seems tailor-made for the place, which unfolds in height, with the kitchen on the lower level, three landings and a mezzanine. In addition, Dany Bolduc, a chef whose reputation is second to none, is in charge.

Who are they ?

Dany Bolduc has an impressive curriculum vitae, but it is especially with his restaurant H4C, in Saint-Henri, that he was able to show his talent. The place, currently closed — major work at the Saint-Henri metro makes it difficult to access the restaurant — should come back to life one day. In the meantime, the chef, now associated with Michael and Ashley Roman within the Best Restaurant Group, is carrying out several projects simultaneously: La Pantry by Dany Bolduc, which has addresses in Westmount, Promenades Saint-Bruno and soon in the Old Montreal, as well as various counters, such as El Santo Perdido, in Mont-Tremblant. In his new establishment on Sherbrooke Street West, Dany Bolduc is supported in particular by the chef, Ryan Sequeira, and, in the dining room, by the mixologist Alex Loisy.

Our experience

Dany Bolduc is not afraid to explore several culinary cultures. However, one constant remains: his mastery of flavors, textures and different techniques to make the products shine and impress. At La Sobremesa, he pays homage to Spanish cuisine, in his own way. It is inspired by the friendliness of this table and offers a menu that is divided into several sections. Sharing is not only possible, but also strongly encouraged.

On a snowy Saturday evening, the warm setting of the restaurant — its dimmed lights, its comfortable leather banquettes, its welcoming service — quickly makes you forget the storm that has just swept over the city. As soon as we arrive, we dive into the long menu which makes you dizzy, between the many tapas, the oyster platters, the plates of chorizo, Iberian ham and cheeses, all imported from Spain, not to mention the grilled meats to share.

The chef is a fine technician and all the craftsmanship behind the dishes served amazes us. For example, the peas adorning the grilled shiitake dish were shelled and frozen when they were at their peak of freshness last summer. There is also the lobster oil made from crustacean carcasses which sublimates the grilled squid dish or the homemade spicy sauce with sea buckthorn and habanero (be careful, hot!) which goes very well with oysters. The sourdough bread and the focaccia are also homemade and absolutely successful.

There are many dishes that have delighted us. We love the ingenuity of cod fritters, a classic that Dany Bolduc enhances by recovering the whey in which the fish marinates to make a side of creamy soup with Brussels sprout leaves floating in it. The croquettes are golden brown, soft to the bite and tasty, accompanied by their homemade mayonnaise.

The plate of grilled wild mushrooms, which the chef takes to other heights by garnishing it with a cauliflower mousseline infused with bay leaf, also stands out. He makes this preparation when the crucifer is in season and then cans it, for maximum freshness. Everything comes with thin slices of lardo, placed on homemade bread. Tasty, fleshy and divine.

Classic of this table, the tomato dish brings a dose of freshness and acidity to the meal. The tomatoes — in the greenhouse at this time of year, the chef always preferring to encourage local production — are presented in large slices and sprinkled with gray shallots, herbs, edible flowers and red wine vinegar.

Several other dishes came to our table that evening: the very tender grilled octopus (which the restaurant sells at the tentacle), which brings the sun with its pomegranate molasses lacquer and fresh mint, as well as the sweetbreads , very tasty with their accompaniment of red tuna, cucumber and kimchi mayonnaise, a pairing that works surprisingly well.

When we read its description, the grilled lobster tail, placed on a beet juice with marinated rose petals floating in it — another product processed in the kitchen, with a surprising taste and to be eaten sparingly — we were enthusiastic about. However, it was the dish that divided the table the most. An aesthetically beautiful and very thoughtful creation, with very marked flavors, which we adore or abhor.

One thing is certain, Dany Bolduc’s cuisine leaves no one indifferent. She is full of personality, originality and character.

In our glass

The evening of our visit, the wine list was not very full, because the restaurant had not received its last order. Anyway, the place’s liquid program will be completely reviewed soon, with the arrival of a brand new sommelier who will be appointed soon. We can expect wines from the regions that the cuisine explores: Spain of course, Portugal, France, Italy, among others.

Fortunately, there was a nice selection of cocktails to quench our thirst. Impeccably executed, the Sherry Sour was delectable and airy, and the Sobremesa Caesar will delight fans of “bloody” with its homemade clamato juice, kimchi sauce and bite-sized toppings (olive, pickles, charcuterie) strung on a stick.

Good to know

Although the place offers a few vegetarian tapas, the emphasis is mainly on seafood, grilled meats, and privately imported cold cuts and cheeses.

The layout of the space makes it difficult to access for people with reduced mobility, although the restaurant has a large round table at the entrance which could accommodate people in this sense.

Price

Although it is possible to sit down here to enjoy a platter of oysters ($40 per dozen or $22 per half-dozen) or a few tapas, expect a bill that can rise quickly — don’t let’s not forget that everything is made or transformed by the house, from fresh and mostly local products. Thus, while some tapas, such as olives or patatas bravas, are offered at less than $15, other dishes are more expensive. Examples: tomatoes ($19), grilled shiitake ($24), grilled squid ($28) or sweetbreads ($32). For grilled meats, we’re talking about $47 for an octopus tentacle, $70 for beef short ribs. As for imported products, they are artisanal and fine, so the price goes in this direction ($46 for 6 cheeses, $16.25 for 100 g of serrano ham, $40 for 200 g of different varieties of Spanish chorizo).

La Sobremesa is open from Thursday to Sunday, in the evening. The place will also open on Wednesday evenings from March 23.

4922 Sherbrooke Street West, Westmount