Restaurant review | La Fabrique, 15 years of brunch

Through the good times and, sometimes, the not so good, our restaurant critics tell you about their experience, present the team in the dining room and in the kitchen, while explaining what motivated their choice of restaurant. This week, we’re returning to sit down at an institution on rue Saint-Denis: the bistro La Fabrique.

Why talk about it?

On October 25, 2023, the La Fabrique bistro turned 15 years old. The anniversary was not celebrated, for good reason: Stéphanie Labelle, co-owner of the restaurant with her partner, chef Jean-Baptiste Marchand, was busy with a completely different birth, that of their second child. But that’s not the reason why I chose this institution on rue Saint-Denis: it’s simply that, in my eyes, it is one of the best places in Montreal to have brunch. And since I hadn’t dipped my fork into one of their gourmet plates for a long time, the opportunity was there!

Who are they ?

La Fabrique has always been the business of the Labelle-Marchand couple. The first is in the dining room (not these days, as she is on maternity leave), the second, in the kitchen. For 15 years, they have worked hard, quite far from the spotlight. First, in a small place on rue Saint-Denis (today Sushi Momo is located there), where they established their reputation for brunch, but also in the evening, with their gourmet and generous plates. At the end of 2015, the couple opened the restaurant Chambre à part next door. In 2018, he decided not to continue this project and to move La Fabrique to the superb premises. In short, today, there is La Fabrique and, in another adjacent room, La Fabrique Annexe, which exclusively welcomes groups.

Our experience

Brunch is undoubtedly the signature of La Fabrique and has its share of devotees. The menu changes every three weeks. The chef often uses variations around the same theme: there is always French toast, a salmon and beef tartare, a vegetarian dish on naan bread, etc. But the toppings and accompaniments change according to the seasons and inspirations.

I’m just looking at the current menu, wondering what I’m going to choose this morning. There is no shortage of choice! Between the pancake with apple puree, cheddar, soft-boiled egg and maple syrup (all the syrup comes from Stéphanie’s parents’ family maple grove), the naan bread with its Sri Lankan-style eggplant stew or the braised beef sandwich with Mornay sauce and red cabbage marmalade, my heart is swinging. The compositions all seem more appetizing than the others, with touches of originality and boldness in the assembly of flavors and ingredients. I like it when I get away from the traditional Benedictine! Moreover, Stéphanie told me, 15 years ago, the restaurant, which refused to serve two eggs and bacon, experienced resistance with its concept of brunch being too “special” for some people’s tastes. Then, word of mouth took effect!

Son prefers simplicity! He sets his sights on the caramel French toast, with extra thick bacon, please, without forgetting a small side of fries (always cooked in duck fat, our very attentive waitress tells us). ” It’s excellent ! », comments my little critic.

My guest and I prefer to think outside the box. As a starter, we celebrate a very well-made root vegetable salad. Nantes carrots, Jerusalem artichoke, celeriac, beets are tossed with quinoa and a few green grapes for a touch of freshness. Everything is topped with fresh mozzarella, and the vinaigrette that tops it is tasty. What is this little spice that I taste? Homemade kimchi, the chef will teach me. Well thought.

After procrastinating for a long time, we settled on carnivorous dishes. Pan-fried beef scoter for him and grilled pork loin for me. Visually, the plates in front of us are superb. My guest, on the other hand, finds that his potato pancake with Indian spices lacks crunch (too thick) and that the flavors, although pleasant, could have combined better. For my part, the romano bean stew advertised looks more like a soup. It’s a little too liquid and the beans are good al dente, which makes the dish less comforting. The plate matters a lot – too much? – elements, but the flavors lack a little punch.

Changing the menu so often, it is certain that certain dishes perhaps do not have the finished side of certain classics of this table such as pancakes or the homemade cranberry English muffin with pulled pork, essentials. During my subsequent visit to take photos, I happily sampled some new creations from the current menu and everything was delicious. I was particularly charmed by the sweet and sour taste of the bread pudding with cauliflower puree, halloumi, grilled pineapple and soft-boiled egg. No doubt: there is creativity galore at La Fabrique!

In our glass

Liquid-wise, it’s quite simple. In addition to the traditional coffees – to order alcoholic if you feel like it – there are of course mimosas (with orange or grapefruit juice), bloody ceasar, spritz, fresh orange juice or juice of the moment. A few more creative signature cocktails for brunch would be a nice addition. For those who have this desire, the wine list is well stocked. There are always a few choices of red or white wines served by the carafe or glass.

Price

La Fabrique continues to offer good prices, and very generous plates: main courses range from $14 to $25; Appetizers and sweet sides will generally cost you between $10 and $15. The mimosa is $8 and wines by the glass start at $11.

Good to know

It is imperative to reserve your place for brunch, as it is very popular! There are always vegetarian choices on the menu and don’t hesitate to let the kitchen know about your intolerances or your special diets; you will be accommodated for sure. Moreover, the menus shared online are always up to date. To finally celebrate his 15th^e anniversary, La Fabrique is offering a “nostalgia menu” from March 12 to 23 (evening) where dishes from the archives will be offered at the price of the time!

Info

Brunches are served from Friday to Sunday, from 10 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Open in the evening, from Tuesday to Saturday, from 5:30 p.m.

3619, rue Saint-Denis, Montreal

Visit the La Fabrique bistro website