Restaurant review | Good humor and sharing at Mui Mui

Through the good shots and, sometimes, the not so good, our restaurant critics tell you about their experience, introduce the team in the dining room and in the kitchen, while explaining what motivated the choice of the restaurant. This week: the playful Mui Mui.

Eve Dumas
The Press

Why talk about it?

Mui Mui caused a stir when the Lauriers de la Gastronomie finalists were announced earlier this month. The smiling “little sister” (that’s what the Cantonese expression “mui mui” means) competes against some of the most prominent tables in Quebec, including ARVI, Mastard, Candide, Monarque and Beba. Its opening dates back a little over a year, with a good part of its short existence devoted to take-out food. We were curious to live the indoor experience.

Who are they ?

We were looking forward to meeting the friendly Minh Phat, the soul of the place, whose good humor is contagious. As proof, our very hospitable server Maxime, a mine of recommendations whose masked smile can be heard in his voice. It was busboy in the previous restaurant where Minh officiated, the defunct Orange Rouge, in the heart of Chinatown. At Mui Mui, the chef-owner promoted him to waiter. It was with the support of a group of childhood friends – Alexandre Des Rosiers, Millie-Maude DesGranges and Thierry Justin – that Minh was able to pursue his dream of cooking, interrupted by the pandemic. During the day, he does the shopping, mise en place in the kitchen and other chef duties. In the evening, he heats the room, while his longtime sous-chef, Félix Emery, does most of the work in the kitchen.

Our experience

It’s a pre-scorching Wednesday evening and the terrace is already full of Montrealers excited to find meals “al fresco”. Inside, there are two communicating rooms. They are sober, marked by blond wood and black, then enlivened by small frames, books, trinkets and plants. We are in the relaxation of the neighborhood restaurant, that of Parc-Extension, directly south of Jarry Park. Minh grew up in Villeray and knows the surroundings well.

We are installed in the second room, where there is a large bench on which my two teenagers rush. The youngest had already made his choices by studying the menu on his phone the day before: grilled broccoli with rouille in sambal oelek sauce, shallots, marinated jalapenos; ribs glazed with soy, sugar and gochujang; dumplings with duck confit in a batter with beet juice.

We can say that he has flair, the coconut. These three small dishes were the best of the meal, with also the contribution of miss her sister: the salad of green beans with garlic and sesame vinaigrette with tofu sauce, overflowing with umami. The large plate of duck stuffed with Italian sausage, to be eaten in salad rolls with its accompaniments, was not the expected feast. The condiments served alongside (cucumber kimchi, green papaya, chive flower mayonnaise) would benefit from a bit more punch, either in taste or texture.

Sharing is at the heart of the Mui Mui experience. If we haven’t ordered enough, we add a dumpling, a plate of albacore tuna, a salad, or we wait for dessert. There are two sweet options: a hearty crème caramel sprinkled with coconut and a white chocolate mousse for those with an above-average sugar tolerance!

The essence of the menu remains the same throughout the year, here, but there are added ingredients, such as snow crab or tomato, with a little twist still Asian. Himself raised in Cantonese and Vietnamese cuisines, Minh Phat draws from these repertoires and also from those of Japan, Korea and Thailand, among others.

Curious and hungry customers can order the discovery menu, which includes ten dishes to share for $50 or $60 per person. But the chef identifies with those who love their “classics”. “Me, I have cravings in life, he explains to us, the day after our visit. So I understand people who want to find certain dishes when they go to a restaurant. If someone comes here to eat only their Vietnamese beef salad or their yellowfin tuna, that’s fine. »

In our glass

The very young Elena Racevičiūtė, another former Orange rouge who has risen well through the ranks, takes care of watering the clientele at Mui Mui. “He’s my trusted person at the restaurant. I can’t live without it,” says Minh Phat. As is now customary in most good restaurants in the city, all tastes are taken into account, with a preference for artisanal products. Beer, cider, cocktails, wine, spirits, non-alcoholic: there’s something for the whole family! The youngsters enjoy the sought-after sodas from the Vermont brand Savouré, while mum sips a glass of Bugey. We notice a preference for France and Italy, in the wine choices, which are moreover quite original and adapted to the cuisine – also original – of the house.

Good to know

Vegetarian options are still numerous here and vegans can also find what they are looking for.

Price

The small dishes will be charged at $15-20, the larger ones at $20-25 and the duck, a large dish to share between two to four guests, depending on appetite, costs $40. The discovery menu at $50-60 surely has good value for money. As for wine, forget the $40 bottle. It hardly exists any more on a Montreal map, for the rest. Prices here start at around $56, but expect to pay around $60 or $70 a pin instead. There are $10-14 options by the glass.

Information

Mui Mui is open in the evening, Wednesday to Saturday, from 5 p.m. You can still order take-out or delivery.

149 Jean-Talon Street West