Restaurant review | Gigi’s: a very pleasant stop in Rosemère

Through the good shots and, sometimes, the not so good, our restaurant critics tell you about their experience, introduce the team in the dining room and in the kitchen, while explaining what motivated the choice of the restaurant. This week: Gigi’s deli and pizza, an Italian counter located in Rosemère.

Why talk about it?

Gigi’s has been on our list for a while. First, because the small counter in Rosemère is the perfect (and affordable) place to help out, whether it’s to grab slices of romaine pizza on the go or a lunch stop. Then, because the place just won the prize for the best Roman pizza in Quebec, at the last Pizza Fest. Finally, many of you are asking for addresses outside the island of Montreal. Here are three excellent reasons to make it our review of the week!

Who are they ?

There’s a fourth reason, actually: Francis Lorrain, an experienced restaurateur who does things right. He’s the one behind Le Boating Club, arguably Laval’s first cool restaurant. He also founded with other partners Les Trois Moineaux, a trading house that produces wines from the Niagara region. With his mother, Ginette Lorrain, he also opened Boucherie Lorrain – Gigi’s is located in the same commercial development. At Gigi’s, he can count on the invaluable support of his chef Bryan Kamanjian and director Sean Bishop.

Our experience

It’s a cold front that freezes your veins that assails Quebec when I stop with my family at Gigi’s on a Saturday afternoon. The place is almost empty – it’s 2 p.m., a strange time to have lunch – but will eventually fill up with a few regulars and friends.

It’s cold, very cold – and the door doesn’t close properly, letting in the biting wind every time a new customer comes. So I need to warm up, and I’m in a hurry! That’s good, a tortellini soup is on the slate. It’s the perfect antidote to this temperature! The tomato broth is tasty, well balanced. There are plump veal tortellini and everything is sprinkled with a generous portion of parmesan. Simple, but very well done.

The menu is simple: pizza al taglio – the vast selection is in evidence behind the counter, allowing you to choose with your eyes –, sandwiches served on ciabatta bread (grilled Italian sausages, homemade porchetta, grilled chicken, goat cheese and pesto…), a few dishes of pasta and tartars.

Unsurprisingly, son sets his sights on the pepperoni and cheese pizza, the children’s favorite. I steal a few bites from him; the dough is crispy while remaining tender to the bite, nothing wrong with the toppings, it’s quite successful.

The house Roman pizza is the reason to make a detour. And there’s something for everyone: from the classic margherita or mortadella and pistachios, to the potato, a white pizza with potatoes, taleggio cheese and pancetta or even the intriguing reinterpretation of the carbonara, sprinkled with eggs calves and guanciale on a parmesan cream.

The lover doesn’t say a word: he’s too busy biting into his very satisfying sandwich topped with chicken cutlets Milanese, with lemon mayo and provolone cheese. The ciabatta bread is particularly successful, with its crisp, slightly fried crust and soft interior.

As the Boucherie Lorrain is nearby, the vast majority of the meat served comes from there. This is the case for tartars, a butcher’s specialty now available for deli, by popular demand. I opt for the beef tartare with truffles. The taste of the latter is well balanced – you can easily sin by excess of truffle oil! –, but I’m not particularly won over. The meat is very good and fresh, cut into perfect little cubes, but the seasoning is not particularly interesting: lots of green onions, lack of acidity and salt. And the croutons served are rancid. The little green salad comes with a very tangy emulsion and the fries are decent – ​​I like the spicy bomba mayo that accompanies them, well seasoned. Next time, I promise myself to try the Caesar-style beef tartare.

No regrets about the homemade cannoli. The whipped ricotta is full of flavor, not too sweet, sprinkled with pistachios. We celebrate it, and we fight for the last bite!

In our glass

Italian sodas and full-bodied coffee are nice non-alcoholic options. For those who want to toast, the place offers Italian-style cocktails (classic spritz or limoncello, negroni, sbagliato…), Italian beers and a short selection of privately imported wines that rotates regularly. Of course, those of Trois Moineaux, including Pinot Noir, a light and fruity juice that’s easy to drink and love, are always there!

Price

Pizza al taglio comes in two sizes: one serving ($4 to $9) or six servings ($20 to $42). The sandwiches retail for more or less $20, as do the pasta dishes. As for the tartars, they are a little more expensive, at $32.

Good to know

The place is quite small and accommodates about twenty people, at most. Despite its small size, it remains accessible to people with reduced mobility. There are a few vegetarian options on the menu, but almost nothing for vegans, and it’s difficult, if not impossible, to eat gluten-free. Open Wednesday to Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 6 p.m.