Pharrell Williams lights up the Pont Neuf, transformed into a podium, with a spectacular show for Louis Vuitton

Paris presents 80 spring-summer 2024 men’s collections from June 20 to 25, including the Louis Vuitton show, the first of its artistic director Pharell Williams, presented on the evening of the first day of fashion week.

The American musician, producer and stylist’s show was eagerly awaited and Pietro Beccari, CEO of Louis Vuitton, explained before the show that he needed “of someone who had something more, who could touch different arts, music, fashion…”. It’s done with this spectacular show that embraced the Pont Neuf.

Access to the show by boat

The show is scheduled for 9:30 p.m. but access to the parade venue, the Pont Neuf, is exclusively by boat, indicates an email sent by the house specifying the place of embarkation: the Edouard Glissant promenade located in front of the Musée d’Orsay on the facade of which a huge poster sits showing Rihanna, pregnant, carrying multiple colorful bags from the trunk maker. And not to miss the boarding pontoon, a video capture with the panointed Google landmark has been sent. Expected boarding time: 8:30 p.m.

The Pont Neuf transformed into a long podium

The boat trip passing under the Royal, Carrousel and Arts bridges takes us to the foot of the Pont Neuf, the oldest in the capital, a stone’s throw from the headquarters of the luxury house. The scenography is spectacular: a huge golden checkered carpet – with iron cubes also gilded as seats – hosts the podium which runs from the right bank to the Ile de la Cité. The choice of gold, though not very present in the outfits, is “a nod to the sun, central point of the collection”, indicates the house.

While waiting for the start of the show, everyone kills time by machine-gunning the view of the Seine at sunset. The view is magnificent and impregnable: the river and its incessant ballet of boats, the view of the deserted Vert Galan square at the foot of which dock the boats bringing journalists and guests, the Samaritaine, the Conciergerie in the distance… You can even see people perched on the surrounding rooftops who also want to admire the spectacle.

A shower of stars

Everything is in place to make this outdoor event a spectacular show that welcomes a shower of stars: singer and businesswoman Rihanna, singer Beyoncé and her husband, rapper Jay-Z, actor Jared Leto, Kim Kardashian …

The checkerboard in the spotlight

The models, with very different physique, parade to the notes of an orchestra led by the star pianist Lang Lang. The cabin is not exclusively male since women also parade. The first models are dandies in camouflage outfits with checkerboard bags, this reference motif is recurring throughout the collection, pixelated, it gives it an undeniable modernity. A chic military aesthetic emerges, like this green suit – a mix between camouflage and checkered pattern – close to the body worn by the designer, during the finale of the show.

Contemporary costumes are closer to the body than in the past. In addition to men who wear skirts and shorts, the collection, which is very consistent in its proposals, does not seem to be summery. We can admire, for example, a coat, splendid, printed with a landscape view of the Pont Neuf.

Vuitton is first and foremost a trunk maker

The monogram, like the checkerboard, is omnipresent, especially on the very colorful bags (leather backpacks, canvas bags, shopping bags, etc.) worn by the models and also displayed on the back of golf carts driving on the catwalk and exhibit a large trunk or an accumulation of luggage reminding us that Vuitton is first and foremost a trunk maker, a leather goods workshop and that is what has made it so successful.

As for accessories, there are imposing shoes, boots, sheepskin slippers and a new checkerboard leather sneaker. We see costume jewelry adorned with pearls, flower pendants and crystals as well as military buttons transformed into earrings. Explorer caps, LVERS studded bucket hats also interpreted in fur with chains of pearls rub shoulders with checkerboard crochet hats available in primary colors.

The finale is spectacular with its catchy gospel choir before the audience ignites a little later with the musical performance of Pharrell Williams and Jay-Z

A bold choice

Even though menswear represents only 5% of the house’s sales, which exceeded 21 billion euros in the first quarter, “a halo effect could resonate” on the other activities, estimates the bank HSBC in an analyst’s note, given to AFP which estimates this choice “bold” And “consistent with LVMH CEO Bernard Arnault’s idea that Louis Vuitton sells culture and not just handbags”.

A beautiful collection indicates, for his part, Pierre-Alexandre M’Pelé, editorial director of GQ France: “He did a big Pharrrell hit. He understood the codes of the house well: he used the monogram, played with the checkerboard and introduced a rather interesting pixelated camouflage pattern”. To make him parade women “proves that he has a change in the way of thinking about clothing at Vuitton. Until now, the man and the woman, it was two designers, two parades and two different campaigns. Everything was very segmented. Pharrell has lots of famous female friends who would definitely want to wear the clothes he designs.” The audience of celebrities did not leave him indifferent either: “tAll the big names that make up today’s pop culture were present. We haven’t seen Beyoncé at a fashion show in years when she herself is on tour.” Although he emphasizes that there is no creative madness, he noted that “we sees more and more celebrities and influencers embracing the skirt. It’s a trend that is taking hold and I have the impression that the men’s skirt that we see more and more on the catwalks, with the endorsement of Pharrell, will inspire more and more young men”.

An exhibition “Just Phriends”

A multi-talented creative force, one who uses music, fashion, art and design to express his style, launched, just before the show, an exhibition Just Phriends with his auction house Joopiter.com (until June 27). For this event, he invited curator and friend Sarah Andelman, co-founder of the Colette store and founder of Just an Idea, a consulting and curation agency. The exhibition, which offers 50 rare works and pieces commissioned from artists, collaborators and friends of Pharrell Williams – Murakami, Kaws, Daniel Arsham, Invader – is being held at the Galerie Perrotin (until June 24). For one of them, Pieter Ceizer “Pharrell is a true icon and inspiration to our generation. Along with his innovative creative work, he is constantly expanding his horizons. He shows creative people how to grow, evolve, build bridges and raise the bar. For me, this work symbolizes the growth and evolution of all skateboarders who were once 14 and are now in their 40s or 50s but still retain youthful energy and creativity.”