Period Secrets | The Press

Old clothes are all the rage, but who really knows their value?

My nephews are passionate about thrift stores. Even for Christmas, they were treated to a trip to those of the big city. It’s a little beyond me, I admit. As a teenager, I dreamed more of well-known brands and brand new low-rise jeans (how awful).

A change in mentality seems to be taking place among many, especially among the younger generations. Whether it’s to revalue the past, save money or make ecological choices, second-hand has the wind in its sails. Even me, I started to be interested in it! But as I explored – with or without nephews – a question quickly arose: how do you assess the quality of second-hand clothing?

I’ll give you a concrete example. I host a show where I learn to become manual (it would be more accurate to write that Itry to learn). For the occasion, I was looking for overalls, an old comfortable thing that I could stain without worry. I ended up finding a jumpsuit in a bright blue.

Once on set, my guest – a general contractor of French origin – burst out laughing when he saw me.

“Where did you get that overalls?”

– This what ? »

He explained to me that it was a classic! The clothes of the workers, those of the factory, the garage, the construction…

– ” Oh yes ? »

When I took off the garment, I observed its label. “Made in France. A quick search told me I was wearing a piece from the 1960s or 1970s, a trend born after the industrial revolution. I had unknowingly purchased a piece full of history. A piece of Prussian blue, the worker’s colour.

Who had unearthed it?

It’s Antoine Thibodeau and Ashlie DeMeo, co-founders of the Palmo Goods store. Since 2021, they have mainly been selling work clothes dating from the 1940s to the 1990s. They find the majority of these pieces in large warehouses (which they keep secret) which are overflowing with linen about to be shipped abroad. .

But how do they recognize its value?

Thanks to passion! answers Antoine. “We love doing research, we have books on the history of work clothes and we surround ourselves with curious people who like to share their knowledge. They are happy to tell us that such and such a pocket on such and such a military shirt has only been made for a year and is therefore valuable! »

Ashlie DeMeo adds that each vintage piece can tell us a lot about those that came before us. She tells me about the French pants of the 1940s, cut shorter to prevent workers from getting stuck in the tracks of a railway…

“For a long time, people had less means to buy clothes, so they had to be very useful or at least last! That’s why you can find 60-year-old pieces that are still flawless. The discoveries are endless. »

The clothes, like little time capsules.

Elaine Léveillé has been collecting retro items since she was 8 years old. In March 2005, she opened the Era Vintage Wear boutique, specializing in revamped used clothing.

“Whether it’s Dior or Gaultier, when the cuts don’t work, I transform them! I’m not a purist… I found a Victorian top and am in the process of making one cropped top. »

Everything Elaine Léveillé offers is created from second-hand parts. She usually unearths them in estate sales and is especially interested in what precedes the decade of the 1980s. The quality of many of the pieces then declined, according to her.

How do you know that a garment deserves a second life now? I gathered the advice of the three experts, question that you can in turn refine your look… and impress your loved ones during your next shopping spree.

“The first thing we want to determine is: when was the article made? “says Ashlie DeMeo. An old piece, rarer and well preserved, could be worth more. In fact, Ashlie and Antoine have designed a catalog to list how the label of different brands has evolved over time. They can thus quickly date the products.

Then, it can be useful to know where the article was made, believes the co-founder of Palmo Goods: “The history of trade in North America tells us a lot about the quality of production. In the 1970s, several countries developed their textile industry. In the 1980s, large companies realized that they could design clothes at home, but produce them elsewhere. At the turn of the 2000s, companies were allowed to trade all over the world. We are therefore particularly happy when we find articles made here or in the United States. »

The entrepreneur adds in the same breath that good clothes are made elsewhere too! For example, excellent wools come from China or Ireland.

According to Elaine Léveillé, before choosing a used thing, you must also inspect its seam allowances. We want there to be a surplus of fabric around each of the pieces of the garment to be able to adapt it to our body and to the trends, which are constantly changing.

“Over time, people will understand that being eco-responsible also means taking care of our clothes to be able to reinvent them! »

We must also pay particular attention to the quality of the workmanship, adds Elaine Léveillé: “How does the garment hang? Are there subtle pleats for the shoulders, shoulder blades, elbows? What matters is not how it looks on the hanger, but when you try it on. »

All good advice to seek out the best the past has to offer. Good advice that we can also ignore, according to the founder of Era Vintage Wear…

“In the end, it’s a creative process! You have to trust your instincts. If you like something, it’s up to you to decide what to do with it. »

My nephews understood everything, basically. Just fun on the horizon.