Paris Haute Couture Week | Orientalism, ballet and delusions of grandeur

(Paris) Orientalism, ballet and madness of grandeur marked the haute couture week in Paris, which presents the most prestigious outfits in the fashion world, unique and tailor-made creations that will appear on red carpets and in galas .

Fendi, arrival in paradise

The walk is ethereal, full of grace at Fendi, one of the last meetings of these four days of spring-summer 2024 fashion shows, which end on Thursday.

The silhouettes, between metallic sheaths and pastel muslin, are vertical, with chest-shoulder bands which hide these silhouettes of Eve.

The play of transparency, in draping that slides, lets the body be seen, when the dress does not simply become a mesh, an excuse to make the skin into a desired rhinestone jewel.

The tireless Kim Jones, who enjoys the luxury of working part-time at Dior Homme and Fendi Couture, uses the Italian brand’s essentials, with maxi baguette bags and silver glasses.

Desert Dunes

This season, sultanas are everywhere: in veils and caftan hoods adorning the head at Stéphane Rolland, in undulating caftans, adorned with a royal embroidered train at Elie Saab, or opulent embroidery at Zuhair Murad.

Armani offered a completely imagined journey, “from the West to the East”, in loose or tight-fitting pants. Just like Stéphane Rolland who, from Bleu Majorelle to caftans, recreated the atmosphere of an undulating ballad in the Moroccan desert.

At Schiaparelli, one of the most anticipated shows, this touch is found in a futuristic version, like the heroines of Duneone of the most anticipated cinema releases of the year.

Then we dance ?

Chanel has joined the ball of fashion creations inspired by dance and ballet (the “ balletcore “), with graceful women with a youthful look, dapper in pink tulle or Pierrot collar and wearing demure bows in their hair.

“I tried to bring together the power and finesse of bodies and clothes in a very light collection, made of tulle, ruffles, pleats and lace,” says Virginie Viard, artistic director of the house.

At Dior Couture, we remember, in a mix of very distinguished outfits, the hairstyle: a low fuzzy bun, when the oval of the face is enhanced by a very chic and very Dior fine black velvet ribbon tied at the nape of the neck.

Darjeeling unlimited

Rahul Mishra, who has dazzled audiences for several years with an idiosyncratic vision of his native India, this time took inspiration from insects, with enormous moths and glittering bees.

At the Indian embassy, ​​the very discreet Vaishali S., the self-made woman the best known of Indian haute couture, presented outfits in feathers and plant braiding, with barefoot women, as if dressed by the gods of nature.

Delirium couturier

At Yuima Nakazato, a Japanese designer keen on experimentation, the frozen and aristocratic world of haute couture had its dose of shock, with a performance revolving around blood on the white stage of the Palais de Tokyo.

The Frenchman Franck Sorbier attempted a “Song of the Healers”, against a backdrop of Corsican polyphony and chic gypsy outfits, with a horse at the reception and a floor covered with hay which challenged the logistics of the very small and cozy studio Harcourt, in the 16^e borough.

Finally, one of the shows of the week was the performance of Julien Fournié, who filled the Mogador theater for his homage to vamps and femmes fatales perched on dizzying heels and dropped the classic back and forth on the podium for a performance grouped and danced, homage to cabaret.