(Paris) On the eighth and penultimate day of women’s fashion week in Paris, women’s designers were in the spotlight on Monday, from Stella McCartney to Marine Serre, with an unusual fashion show Like a Prayer in a Parisian church.
Stella totally vegan
Designer Stella McCartney on Monday called on the fashion world to “wake up” during a fashion show under the auspices of “Mother Nature” with, she said, 90% of the materials in the collection “eco-responsible”, until vegan leather handbags.
The Briton has multiplied the suits with “exaggerated proportions”, very shouldered and the evening dresses in noble material, but seems to have allowed herself more eccentricity than usual with ball dresses like in enormous red crochet or flash sky blue .
In terms of material, the designer says she is “looking for solutions that allow you not to see the difference with the naked eye”, like this full outfit in white faux leather.
Under the glass roof of André Citroën Park, a rare winter women’s fashion week parade in natural light, the designer installed her father, Paul McCartney, and another former Beatles, Ringo Starr, in the front row.
The gala was also, according to the fashion expression, that of “nepo babies”, the “children of”, with Lily Moss, the daughter of supermodel Kate Moss, on the podium.
Stella McCartney, who founded her eponymous brand in 2001 after working at Chloé, left London to show in Paris, like Alexander McQueen or Victoria Beckham.
Like a prayer, at Lutz Huelle
Like a Prayer of Madonna resounds under the stained glass windows of the American Cathedral in Paris. This hit caused scandal when it was released 35 years ago with its clip mixing sexual and Christ references.
On the altar, a statue of Christ has been modestly covered with a cardinal purple fabric, but with its golden paint, Jesus on the cross has his gaze fixed on the thirty models in very sober outfits presenting the collection of the German designer Lutz Huelle .
Parades in churches are not exceptions in Paris, parishes seeing them as an additional denier.
Marine Serre markets on the moon
The 32-year-old designer, a leading figure of her generation, made her mark on Monday, by bringing together her guests in a third place, the Ground Control, in the east of Paris in a market atmosphere, with cafes, drinks stands, pizzas and florists.
“I chose the market because it is a place that connects people, a place where we take the time to be together,” says the Frenchwoman who says she is against parades organized in ephemeral “cubes.” and who used as many “upcycled” materials as possible, giving them a new, more qualitative life.
The models, entirely chosen by “wild distribution”, ranged in age from a few months to around sixty years old. A mother paraded with her child in a baby carrier, in a white outfit screen-printed with the crescent moon, the signature of the Marine Serre label.
In the looks spotted: a devastating black evening outfit, a short black dress with angel or demon wings, and more streetwear silhouettes in screen-printed denim and everyday accessories, like the water bottle.
“I see beauty in the ordinary, with simplicity […] I wanted women to feel comfortable, but also graceful and powerful in the garment,” the designer told the press after her show.
Propelled by the LVMH prize that she received in 2017 along with a grant of 300,000 euros, the young designer uses upcycling and mixing styles between sportswear and haute couture.