(Paris) The Japanese house Issey Miyake presented Thursday at Paris Fashion Week an autumn-winter men’s collection on the theme of exploring the primitive and virgin lands, all in pastels and cushioned fabrics.
The collection, “an immersion in the nature of creativity”, was designed by French design specialist Ronan Bouroullec, a jack-of-all-trades who goes from ceramics to photography and, now, fashion.
At the Palais de Tokyo, to heartbeat music, the first outfits transition smoothly from off-white to sea green with touches of red, evoking water lilies and amphibian nature.
The composition of the brand’s outfits with its famous pleats remains faithful to the classic look of men with pants, tops and coats or jackets.
But the ankle is freed by slits at the bottom of the pants and the sleeves are deconstructed, asymmetrically.
The handbags take the form of picture cushions, like cushioning on the world, worn against the stomach in a protective gesture or at the end of the arm.
As is often the case this season, the coat is unreasonably bulky and the shoulders double in width.
The Japanese brand, one of the first to create costumes for dancers, is known for its flexible clothing, also adapted to the movements of conductors or cooks.
Made from polyester so that the pleat is permanent, the pieces are made before being placed between two sheets of paper. At this point, they are 1.5 times the final size. They are then passed through a machine which gathers the garment.