(Paris) After New York, London and Milan, Fashion Week started on Monday in Paris with fashion shows tinged with humor, on a first day traditionally dedicated to young creation.
It was the Belgian Marie Adam-Leenaerdt, 27, a graduate of the prestigious National School of Visual Arts of La Cambre in Brussels and new to the Parisian calendar, who opened the ball.
Grey, formal and structured looks, accessorized with huge bags, launched the show, after a sung invitation to go to the beach: “ Let’s go to the beach ! »
“There is something that is very Belgian. It’s important for me to use codes that everyone recognizes and play on paradoxes,” the stylist, who creates conceptual and timeless fashion for an avant-garde woman, explained to AFP.
Swimsuits, sometimes adorned with a sort of pareo covering one leg, mixed with long white, Barbie pink or sky blue dresses.
“There is a reflection on how we wear the swimsuit, the pareo which is integrated into the swimsuit, or the swimsuit which transforms into clothing. I wanted to create the paradox,” emphasized Marie Adam-Leenaerdt.
The collection also questions seasonality in fashion, an obsolete notion according to the designer.
Louboutin corsets, rhinestones and stilettos: Victor Weinsanto, a former classical dancer trained by Jean Paul Gaultier before launching his brand in 2020, once again showed his love for performance on Monday in a collection called “Perfect Day”.
” Very funny “
He opened the show with a bridal look, which traditionally closes a show not of ready-to-wear, but of haute couture.
“This is a woman who is going to get married all in Swarovski, but with her hair blowing in the wind. It’s a bit of a storm: rainy wedding, happy wedding… I wanted something that was very basic, but very funny and, at the same time, that remained fashionable,” the 27-year-old designer told AFP. pink hair.
He claims to have calmed down “in his head” and does more fashion than cabaret, with structured, chic, but offbeat pieces like hooded suit jackets.
But humor “remains very important” for the parade.
He stayed true to his cast, with slim and busty models, some performing mini-shows during the show.
The Pierre Cardin house, which, under the leadership of his nephew Rodrigo Basilicati-Cardin, returned to the official calendar in March, after more than two decades of absence, presents a new fashion show Monday evening, in the midst of a dispute over the succession of the designer who died in 2020.
This is the subject of an investigation, in particular for abuse of weakness and fraud, and of complaints filed by the family of the creator and his great-nephew, who succeeded him.
The house has not hired a stylist and the collections supervised by Rodrigo-Basilicati-Cardin are made by long-time collaborators of the studio.
The Paris Week is due to host 67 fashion shows and around forty presentations, listed on the official calendar.
For Olivier Rousteing, star designer of Balmain, this Fashion Week is marked by the unprecedented theft of 50 pieces, by armed people who fled.
A judicial investigation has been opened, but nothing is known about the fate of the stolen parts.
The show is held on Wednesday at 2 p.m. and its team works “day and night” to redo the collection.