Paris Fashion Week | Chloe brings back Indian summer, dark romance at Rick Owens

(Paris) German artistic director Chemena Kamali once again summoned, for her second show at Chloé during Paris Fashion Week, the brand’s fundamentals: light blouses, twirling dresses, evanescence and floral prints.

Under the gray accompanied by wool coats and suits, for collections supposed to be worn next summer, Chloé has brought back a bit of Indian summer.

“A feeling of lingerie emerges from the collection, mixed with soft summer clothing cuts and the play of proportions,” explains the designer in her note.

A discovery, lace corsairs tied at the ankles like harem pants in very delicate guipure, came in black, beige and white, to the “ahhh” of fashionistas.

Chloé’s summer wardrobe for 2025 has a very 1970s vibe, from the unconditional ruffled blouse to thicker denim or leather jackets, unique in their pleated backs.

The palette remained in powdery and pastel tones, shades of apricot, beige and white as if faded in the sun in the codes of the house, with some daring, like a peony dress.

After the departure of Gabriela Hearst from the artistic direction of Chloé, Chemena Kamali, a stylist born in Germany and trained at the prestigious Central Saint Martins in London, was poached from Saint Laurent and appointed by the parent company, the Richemont conglomerate, in October 2023.

Her first collection in February was a success and her vaporous dresses were repeated like hot cakes on red carpets all over the world.

“Facing wars”

The Mugler fashion show, a celebration of the 50th anniversary of the label founded by Thierry Mugler, dusted off the archives.

Designer Casey Cadwallader explored the flower motif, anything but romanticized, but a giant cream flower version crushed on a bare bust, for example.

Rick Owens, an American fashion alien unknown to the public, but adored by his semi-gothic community, the most cutting-edge semi-summit of fashion, has taken possession of the square in front of the Palais de Tokyo.

The last few seasons had given rise to intimate fashion shows, in his apartment on 7^e district of Paris. And the tortured designer blamed himself.

“It ended up being an act of exclusion instead of respect for the values ​​I hold in the face of the wars we are experiencing,” he explained in a statement before the parade.

An army of some 200 amateur models, design students or friends of the house, paraded under the gaze of black angels posted on the roof of the museum, who threw white petals at them.

The rain, which has not stopped since the start of Fashion Week on Monday, miraculously stopped right at the start of the show.

The outfits were still dark, with ominous hooded jackets and brushed denim ensembles, like something out of a sci-fi movie.

Rick Owens dedicated this collection, like the previous one, to Hollywood, the district of Los Angeles where he grew up, with all the vices that have punctuated his hectic life since the 1980s.