Paris fashion week | Chanel’s obsession with tweed

(Paris) Suits, coats, pants: the Chanel woman is dressed in tweed in the hues of Scottish landscapes, as when Gabrielle Chanel appropriated the wardrobe of the Duke of Westminster, in a collection revealed on Tuesday.

Posted yesterday at 11:24

On the last day of women’s ready-to-wear week, the show takes place in an ephemeral space of the Grand Palais whose walls are entirely covered in black and white tweed. The seats are too, like the invitation cards to the parade.

“Devoting this entire collection to tweed is an obvious tribute,” says Chanel artistic director Virginie Viard.

This material originating from Scotland, which takes its name from a river of the same name located on the border between England and Scotland, is woven from several thick woolen threads of different colors, for a robust and resistant garment. wind.

It was the founder of the house, Gabrielle Chanel, who made women wear tweed in the 1950s, a fabric first prized by peasants and hunters before being adopted by the English aristocracy for golf games. .


PHOTO PIROSCHKA VAN DE WOUW, REUTERS

“Devoting this entire collection to tweed is an obvious tribute,” says Chanel artistic director Virginie Viard.

“We followed in the footsteps of Gabrielle Chanel, along the River Tweed to imagine tweeds in the colors of this landscape”, says Virginie Viard.

A pink coat speckled with blue and purple or a burgundy suit iridescent with gold evoke his misty landscapes.

The sets are worn with large tights and black and beige rubber boots or waders.

Pointed-toe pumps with mini stiletto heels go with dressy little black dresses, always with thick high socks.


PHOTO VIANNEY LE CAER, ASSOCIATED PRESS

The sets are worn with large tights and black and beige rubber boots or waders.

In this fall-winter 2022-2023 collection, Virginie Viard follows in the footsteps of Gabrielle Chanel’s story with the Duke of Westminster “and her jackets that she appropriates”.

“Nothing sexier than wearing the clothes of the person you love. I am fascinated by the gesture, which is always contemporary”, emphasizes the stylist.

Male jackets are feminized, slightly oversized jackets.

A rare thing in this Fashion week which is taking place in the middle of the war in Ukraine and marked by dark colors, the Chanel wardrobe – in pink, green and red – is joyful, even flashy, inspired by the England of the sixties.


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