It was without a doubt one of the hottest restaurant openings of the spring. That of Papito, born from the same “family” of Café Parvis and Bar Furco.
The gang had been eyeing the large glass premises on rue Saint-Alexandre, a few steps from the other two addresses, for years. A large, refined rectangle with high ceilings that can recall Berlin or even a cafeteria for adults, says co-owner and designer Zébulon Perron.
After all, there are 130 seats, not counting those on the (superb) terrace to come.
Except for the charcoal and wood grill – the centerpiece of the kitchen – almost everything was bought second hand on the Marketplaces of this world. The tables even come from old bowling alleys.
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PHOTO DOMINICK GRAVEL, THE PRESS
The meats are cooked over charcoal or in a wood oven.
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PHOTO DOMINICK GRAVEL, THE PRESS
A fresh and flavorful starter of cucumbers with sour cream, dill and relish
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PHOTO DOMINICK GRAVEL, THE PRESS
On the left, duck breast. In the center, sausages with chimichurri. On the right, a whole char.
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PHOTO DOMINICK GRAVEL, THE PRESS
This salad with buttermilk and parmesan is pure pleasure in the mouth.
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PHOTO DOMINICK GRAVEL, THE PRESS
Like the place, the wine list is accessible and friendly.
1/5
In the city center, Zébulon Perron and the members of his workshop (including his accomplice Andréanne Guillemette) designed the sumptuous decors of the Boulevardier, the Honeyrose, the Marcus, and of course the Parvis and the Furco.
“It’s a return to our first loves. At Buvette Chez Simone, my first project, there was this DIY, Do-It-Yourself side. »
“We wanted a festive place that was anything but intimidating,” adds Jean-François Gladu, one of the other co-owners.
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PHOTO DOMINICK GRAVEL, THE PRESS
The open kitchen occupying a large space embodies the values of accessibility and transparency. “We see the restaurant in all its mechanics,” emphasizes designer and co-owner Zébulon Perron.
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PHOTO DOMINICK GRAVEL, THE PRESS
A Berlin setting, they said.
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PHOTO DOMINICK GRAVEL, THE PRESS
A terrace will be set up in this ideal outdoor location.
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PHOTO DOMINICK GRAVEL, THE PRESS
Papito has 130 seats.
1/4
On the plate, the vegetables come from La Fermette and the Duncan farm of co-owner Éric Bélanger (just like the sea buckthorn in the house Lager beer). As for the meats, cooked over coal or in a wood oven, they mainly come from small Quebec producers, while the arctic char was “caught” in Ahuntsic in the urban fish farm of the company Opercule!
Everything is designed to avoid waste. Chef Joëlle Trottier’s brigade has the mandate to cut up the animals purchased in their entirety “from nose to tail”. “For the menu, I adapt,” summarizes the latter.
The chef will say several times during our meeting to what extent Papito is made up of a “dream team”.
PHOTO DOMINICK GRAVEL, THE PRESS
Co-owner Jean-François Gladu, host Jimmy Duval, designer Zébulon Perron, chef Joëlle Trottier and hostess Laurence Vigneault-Bérubé
For her part, host Laurence Vigneault-Bérubé will repeat the words “friendly”, “accessible”, “festive” and “welcoming”, which is reflected in the generosity of the dishes to share and the wine list. Highly recommend a bottle of Chinon or German Riesling for $50.
Papito certainly does not embody the image one might have of a downtown restaurant. It feels more like chef friends have invited us to the modern version of a banquet or wedding hall.
Papito is the nickname his late father affectionately gave to co-owner Alejandra Ponce Pacheco. His photo is on the front door, so when you walk through it, you feel like you’re already part of the family.
Open Tuesday to Saturday, from 5 p.m.
1425, rue Saint-Alexandre, Montreal
Visit the Papito website