In the sea of restaurant openings, real gems can hide. You shouldn’t miss out on these. The well-crafted universe of Catherine Couvet Desrosiers, chef of the celebrated Foxy for the last four years, is one of the new must-sees. Panacée should therefore be listed high on your list of recent restaurants to try.
A first glance at the dining room on Rue Atateken reveals a large U-shaped bar with about fifteen seats. When we point out to our hostess that the space evokes a more subdued version of the late Hôtel Herman, a beloved restaurant on Boulevard Saint-Laurent that closed in 2017, she confirms that this was her intention, brought to life by the architecture studio Mise à jour and the contractor Les deux marteaux. There is also a small, slightly more private room in the back with a few tables for two or four.
“I cooked at Hôtel Herman between my jobs at Bouillon Bilk and Cadet,” says Catherine Couvet. “For my restaurant, I took inspiration from lots of places where I worked. There are also the late Relae and Manfreds in Copenhagen where we cooked in front of the customers. Having a first comment from customers is really valuable.”
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PHOTO DOMINICK GRAVEL, THE PRESS
This cucumber salad with peanuts, peppers and coriander is reminiscent of a Chinese classic, but prepared “Quebec style”.
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PHOTO DOMINICK GRAVEL, THE PRESS
Chef Catherine Couvet Desrosiers is now at home.
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PHOTO DOMINICK GRAVEL, THE PRESS
Cappelletti showcase tomatoes in several ways.
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PHOTO DOMINICK GRAVEL, THE PRESS
The large U-shaped bar may recall the late Hotel Herman.
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PHOTO DOMINICK GRAVEL, THE PRESS
This quail is a true labor of love.
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PHOTO DOMINICK GRAVEL, THE PRESS
The wines are chosen by Laurent Cassis and Maude-Andrée Meloche.
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PHOTO DOMINICK GRAVEL, THE PRESS
Pastry chef Jessy Farrar creates stunning desserts.
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PHOTO DOMINICK GRAVEL, THE PRESS
From left to right: Maude-Andrée Meloche, Vincent Beauseigle, Laurent Cassis, Catherine Couvet Desrosiers, Fanny Allard, Jessy Farrar and Magali Payette
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The first bites are also prepared behind the bar at Panacée by the person the chef calls a “Swiss army knife,” Laurent Cassis. The chef is also a sommelier. He takes care of the beautiful wine list with Maude-Andrée Meloche. Very nice choices, young and lively, rub shoulders with a few older vintages unearthed in the precious reserves of Quebec agencies.
Working with the distinguished sommelier (now co-owner) Véronique Dalle at Foxy, the chef developed a delicate style of cuisine that allows for true love matches between dishes and wines. This approach follows her to Panacée where she and her team offer a three- or five-plate course at $60 and $75 respectively. This menu is not 100% imposed. There are a few choices to be made for each course.
We cannot recommend enough that you opt for the full package, otherwise you will miss out on the pre-desserts and desserts from the talented pastry chef Jessy Farrar, from Hélicoptère, an excellent restaurant in Hochelaga.
Panacée is named after a reimagined version of the Penicillin cocktail that was served at Foxy. “The name has stuck with me because I think it epitomizes the definition of hospitality. There’s nothing like a good meal, good wine and good friends to get us back on our feet,” says the chef, who can now create that magic at home.
Open Wednesday to Saturday, 5:30 p.m. to 10 p.m.
1701 Atateken Street, Montreal
Visit the Panacea website