A restaurant open for lunch and only during the week? In a rather quiet corner of La Petite-Patrie (at the corner of Bélanger and De La Roche streets) and which bears the name Chez Jean-Paul? Intriguing.
Entering on a Thursday midday when the sun compensates for the sharp drop in the mercury, we are seduced by the brightness of the premises formerly occupied by the Cœur de loup restaurant. Our eye is drawn to the white ornamental ceiling, but above all to the half-open chiaroscuro kitchen, at the back, behind the bar, where Isael Gadoua, chef-owner of the place, is busy.
We will learn that the latter was previously co-chef at Paloma, which is reminiscent of Chez Jean-Paul: a neighborhood restaurant in its essence, but dishes worthy of the big tables on the plate. In ours: melting arctic char under a deliciously crispy skin, served with endives and a fine complement of anchovies. Our guest opted for the pasta with clams, mussels and bottarga (made with dried fish roe). A delight, with corresponding prices for a lunch.
In the evening, the dishes are less classic and more to share with a nice choice of seafood (clams, scallops, etc.). “We want people to taste as many things as possible on the menu,” says Isael Gadoua, who named his restaurant in honor of the person who gave him the desire to cook: his grandfather. Will the lunch formula be the same as the evening formula? The small team at Chez Jean-Paul is flexible. The host – and sommelier – Laurent Blanchet also explains that the wine offered by the glass often depends on the first customers of the day. We therefore thank those who opened a bottle from an Austrian vineyard that we love: Koppitsh.
Open Tuesday to Thursday from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., Wednesday to Friday from 5:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.
1141, rue Bélanger, Montreal
Visit the Chez Jean-Paul website