This text is part of the special book Plaisirs
Known for having been at the heart of the Mayan civilization in Central America, this charming little country that is Belize has a lot to teach us about the tasty history of cocoa.
When we talk about chocolate, we often think of Switzerland, Belgium or France. A little less in Belize. However, this English-speaking enclave of Central America, located in a pocket handkerchief in the south of Mexico and the east of Guatemala, is considered as the “cradle of chocolate” since one discovered there, on the archaeological site of Colha, cocoa residues at the bottom of Mayan pottery dating from 2600 years ago.
Brilliant architects, learned astronomers and formidable warriors, the Mayans were also among the first to discover the virtues of the fruit of the cocoa tree, long before the arrival of the conquistadors. For these lords of the jungle, drinking chocolate was considered a gift from the gods. A symbol of abundance and voluptuousness, the divine beverage was thus reserved, for special occasions, for a handful of high dignitaries enthroned at the top of the pyramid.
Gold in beans
For ordinary mortals, dried cocoa beans were used as currency in order to afford various goods and services, and to pay certain taxes. Over time, the ancestral currency has lost the value it was given during the golden age of the Mayan kings. But the heirs of the ancient civilization of Mesoamerica still consume chocolate as their illustrious ancestors did.
This is the case of the women of the Coc family who pass on old recipes from mother to daughter, and endeavor to perpetuate the traditions within their organization Indian Creek Maya Arts Women’s Group. From the Q’eqchi’ people, a Mayan community very present in the lush mountains of Belize, Avelina, Isabela and Rosa roast the cocoa beans over a wood fire, before patiently shelling them by hand and putting them through a metate.
This stone grindstone, which used to be given as a wedding gift, makes it possible to transform cocoa into powder, with the strength of the wrist. The fruit of this hard work is then mixed with hot water to obtain a bitter drink which can be enhanced with chilli or honey, according to taste. Some add corn flour to make a hearty drink to sip with cabbage tortillas, made with hearts of palm.
A living legacy
“The Mayans have always harvested cocoa to drink it,” whispers Julio Saqui, the earthy owner of Che’il Mayan Chocolate. “They were the first to domesticate cocoa to consume it and use it in their rituals. Even today, in some remote areas of Belize, it is customary before a wedding to drink a bowl of thick, dark chocolate to bring health and prosperity to the bride and groom. »
Based in the Stann Creek district, near Dangriga, Julio Saqui is one of those artisans who have reclaimed Belize’s rich cocoa heritage. The days of Hershey grabbing the country’s beans, exporting most of them and underpaying small growers, are well and truly over. After settling along the Hummingbird Highway that connects Dangriga to Belmopan, the capital of Belize, the American multinational packed up in the early 1990s.
Since then, a fairer form of trade has slowly developed. Based in Toledo, the great chocolate region, Maya Mountain Cacao (MMC) has established itself as a model of social enterprise. The Belizean cooperative now collaborates with nearly 350 Mayan farms, to supply itself with organic beans paid at their fair value. MMC then takes care of the fermentation process which gives the cocoa all its flavor.
A foodie’s paradise
At the same time, a good dozen local companies have launched into organic chocolate and agrotourism. In San Felipe, Juan and Abelina Cho offer guided tours of their estate called Ixcacao, named after the Mayan goddess of cocoa and fertility. In San Pedro, the Belize Chocolate Company tantalizes the taste buds with golden chocolate squares shaped like a Mayan temple, which melt in your mouth divinely.
Lured by the tropical sun, Chris and Jo Beaumont left Great Britain to settle on Belize’s largest island, Ambergris Caye, in the late 1990s. But it was very difficult to find a chocolate bar then in the country. Which led the theobromine-addicted exile couple to open, years later, the Belize Chocolate Company in the heart of bustling San Pedro, where golf carts rule.
Their shop has become an unmissable stop on gourmet tours that offer the opportunity to discover the culinary riches of a country with multiple flavors, Amerindian, Afro-Caribbean and Creole. Already very popular with diving enthusiasts attracted by its Great Barrier Reef, the former British Honduras has today carved out a special place for itself in the hearts of foodies. Lovers of taste adventures who embark with delight on the trail of chocolate, to the farms of southern Belize.
From farm to tablet
This special content was produced by the Special Publications team of the Homework, relating to marketing. The drafting of Homework did not take part.