This text is part of the special Pleasures notebook
Former queen of coal, then practically become a ghost, the small Alberta town of barely a hundred permanent residents is finally coming back to life. Situated along the David Thompson Highway at the foot of the Rocky Mountains, it promises a stark contrast to the large resorts that tourists are accustomed to. Heading for a polishing diamond that can be discovered one adventure at a time.
Arriving at the end of the day, we park the Jeep under large pine trees. On the grounds of Expanse Cottages, time is lost in the vast spaces. The pretty Spoolmak, a freshly renovated house assigned to us, is well equipped. And even if the neighboring houses are not very far away, the configuration of the place makes you feel completely isolated in this dense forest. A landscape cut by numerous paths and populated by wolves, which we will hear howling most of the night.
In the early morning, the trees whose tops we can no longer see are bathed in a thick fog delicately pierced by the sun’s rays. Today we are going to explore the North Saskatchewan River for an inflatable raft ride. Following the flow, the scenic tour takes us from Banff National Park to the Kootenay Flats, further east. Our engaging guide, Ken Larlee, is an expert whose breadth of knowledge about the surrounding area, the river and the ecosystems it flows through is unrivaled.
The territory that we discover is barely marked by humans. Annabelle Oung, destination coordinator at Explore Nordegg & Abraham Lake, warned us. The area is virtually pristine and is gradually gaining interest from travelers looking for an experience different from what Canmore, Banff or Jasper can offer. “Here we have access to the raw Rockies [dessinées par la nature] and not landscapes that have been developed for tourists, as is the case at Lake Louise, for example. »
The descent ends at Abraham Lake, Alberta’s largest artificial lake, created in 1972 with the construction of Bighorn Dam. We hurry to take the road to enjoy a better view of this vast expanse of turquoise water which stretches for more than 30 kilometers. Here in winter, visitors from all over the world stop to photograph the spectacular gas bubbles trapped under the ice and produced by aquatic bacteria that expel methane.
Day two begins with Jerry Holik, co-owner of Nature’s Gateway, a luxury lodging resort he runs with his wife, Tanya Koshowski. Riding our electric bike, we head into the forest following the roads of the many old railways up to the Taunton Bridge. Midday is marked by a latte and a slice of pie at the Miners Café, known for its homemade desserts, ready to bake or enjoy on site. In a few weeks, when the tourist season begins, people will be lining up to taste the specialties: ginger, pear and bourbon, blueberries and mango or chocolate and peanut butter.
Before taking the road to Calgary, we follow a route along the old paths that surrounded the mine, where some vestiges still stand. Then, as we leave this isolated village with an old soul, we exchange a few words with a retired couple. They are regulars who come from Edmonton to test their swing on the historic nine-hole golf course in the center of Nordegg. Disappointed to see us leave so quickly, they insisted: “We must stay longer!” It’s the perfect place to stop time. »
Exceptional destination
A stop at Nordegg, a hidden treasure that refuses to grow too fast, requires a little planning. We recommend doing your shopping in Banff, Calgary or Edmonton before hitting the road to this jewel of the Rockies. You can get fresh fruits and vegetables, stored in a large refrigerated space, at the Beehive Artisans Market. Right next door, the gas station serves as a general store. There are excellent vacuum-sealed meats, camping essentials and accessories. However, the food supply is limited and uneven.
The main challenge for tourists who wish to visit the place remains that of the lack of hotel-type accommodation, recognizes Annabelle Oung. “Most of them are short-term rentals like Airbnb or Vrbo that require a minimum of two nights. It can be difficult for some travelers to find what suits them. Nordegg is also a small hamlet, so the number of gîtes is limited. In the summer, usually, everything is booked quite far in advance,” she says.
A lot of
The Nordegg Heritage Center is one of Canada’s most comprehensive industrial museums. Nordegg is home to the first via ferrata of Alberta, created by Girth Hitch Guiding. It is also one of the rare places where it is possible to fly over the Rockies by helicopter with the Rockies Heli company. Finally, the Nordegg Canteen is the starting and finishing point for several activities. We stop there for a sandwich, fries or a microbrewery beer which will serve as refueling for the adventures to come.
The journalist was welcomed by Explore Nordegg & Abraham Lake.
This content was produced by the Special Publications team at Duty, relating to marketing. The writing of the Duty did not take part.