Milan Fashion Week | The return of the 90s

(Milan) A wind of nostalgia for the 90s blew through Milan fashion week, which ended on Sunday evening after its fair share of shows and celebrities.

The successful fashion shows by Haddaway or Alizée, punctuated by appearances by stars such as Paris Hilton at Versace or Kate Moss at Bottega Veneta, made it possible to detect the trends in women’s fashion for spring/summer 2023. Here are some of them -ones.

Cargo pants

The great protagonist of the next Spring/Summer season will be cargo pants, a fashionable version of military fatigues and a key piece of the 90s wardrobe. This season, Italian houses have revisited them in chic versions: in silky technical fabrics at Fendi with pockets embellished with the famous FF logo and long straps, in chocolate-colored silk at Jil Sander or princely purple at Versace, but always rigorously long to cover shoes. Ferrari, which launched into ready-to-wear for three collections, offered it in a faded jeans version, while Dolce & Gabbana prefers it with holes and lacerated.

The dress worn over the pants

Another trend seen on the catwalks, the over-skirt or over-dress, to be worn over trousers. A solution to definitely bring the dress out of an exclusively female wardrobe? At Prada, long, completely transparent old-fashioned nightgowns are superimposed on integral shirt-pants combinations. At Fendi, they are over-skirts or transparent pinafore dresses on flowing pants. Chasuble effect also at Jil Sander with sleeveless cotton dresses that become very long tops for men worn over Bermuda shorts or trousers. For women, dresses with fringes are also superimposed on pants. In the new Emporio Armani collection, flowing sarongs or tunics worn over harem pants come straight from Giorgio Armani’s attention to non-Western cultures from India, Syria, Arabia or China.

Silk or satin, it has to shine

Tops, dresses, pants, jackets in silk or satin were on all the fashion shows and will therefore be everywhere next summer. At Roberto Cavalli, large ivory silk dresses evoke the splendor of Hollywood glamor in the golden age of cinema. In the new Bottega Veneta collection by young prodigy Matthieu Blazy, the detail of a silk scarf hung on the back gives movement to the silhouettes. At Prada, slip dresses come out of the intimate sphere in shades of warm colors. They are wrinkled, as indeed at Versace, which makes its long black silk and lace nightie its punk wedding dress.

The knit dress

Missoni, the house known for knits, does not miss the appeal of this trend. Its new artistic director, Fabrizio Grazioli, however, has moved away from the historical patterns and the kaleidoscopic palette dear to the brand to offer a collection of tight-fitting fine-knit dresses in yellow, cyan and magenta. At Fendi as at Jil Sander, no patterns, but the knit dress has cutouts on the belly or at the waist. At Benetton, it is superimposed with bras. At Bottega Veneta, Matthieu Blazy uses the jacquard technique to create dresses with trompe-l’oeil motifs inspired by Italian futurist artists.

pop fruit salad

A fruity and colorful summer is also what some designers promise us. Apples, pears, cherries, in micro and macro proportions, in luscious saturated colors or glazed variants embellished the ready-to-wear pieces. casual of Benetton passed under the leadership of its new artistic director Andrea Incontri. At Roberto Cavalli, grapes, palm trees and pineapples punctuate necklines or cover dresses. Matty Bovan’s Maximalism features a large collage of fruit patterns, checks and other psychedelic variations. For Moschino, the unclassifiable Jeremy Scott pushes the delirium even further with a literally inflated pop collection where the looks are embellished with buoys, dolphins and other air mattresses.