(Milan) The new artistic directors of Tod’s and Moschino took their first steps on Friday at Milan Fashion Week with their women’s collections for fall-winter 2024-2025.
Tod’s chose a tram depot decorated in its colors for the debut of Matteo Tamburini, who showcased sleek, luxe, travel-ready outfits complete with oversized zipped leather totes and even garment bags.
The designer, who was until now responsible for ready-to-wear at Bottega Veneta, is one of three new artistic directors who made their debut at the Italian brands this week, along with Adrian Appiolaza at Moschino and Walter Chiapponi at Blumarine.
The Tod’s fashion show was one of the most anticipated of the week, in part thanks to the brand’s ambassador, Chinese singer and actor Xiao Zhan, whom dozens of young women waited for in the rain behind barriers.
Inside, Conde Nast’s Anna Wintour, wearing a burgundy leather trench coat, dressed head-to-toe in a warm shade of taupe, was nearly trampled by a horde of cameras surrounding the Chinese star.
Under the warm yellow lights of the runway, guests were treated to heating pads to combat the cold and discovered trousers in sophisticated grays, blouses and belted jackets in creamy leather, and classic trousers with practical lines.
PHOTO LUCA BRUNO, ASSOCIATED PRESS
The Tod’s fashion show was one of the most anticipated of the week, in part thanks to the brand’s ambassador, Chinese singer and actor Xiao Zhan, whom dozens of young women waited for in the rain behind barriers.
Tod’s having its roots in shoes, Matteo Tamburini had to take the brand’s classic Gommino moccasin.
He gave it a modern twist by adding exaggerated red leather fringe to the front, vibrant with every step.
Fringe made further appearances adorning the back of a sleeveless burgundy leather dress. Starting with a turtleneck, long fringes also swung back and forth across the back.
Sophisticated and modern, the collection seems made for fashionistas who will never be seen chasing a train.
“The marketing and styling teams” chose an appropriate location together, Diego Della Valle, CEO of the Tod’s group, commented to AFP after the fashion show.
At the beginning of the month, Tod’s announced the entry into its capital of the L Catterton investment fund, supported by the luxury giant LVMH, with the Della Valle family remaining the majority shareholder.
No more animals at Cavalli
PHOTO GABRIEL BOUYS, AGENCE FRANCE-PRESSE
Stylist Fausto Puglisia of Roberto Cavalli has transformed the brand’s signature leopard, cheetah, zebra and python print patterns into marble veins in irresistible gray, beige and white tones, even green, mustard yellow and amethyst.
If animal prints are part of the DNA of the Italian fashion house Roberto Cavalli, stylist Fausto Puglisi has transformed the animal into a mineral.
He chose marble for his new collection, a new step for the brand known for its skin-baring and eye-catching style.
The brand’s signature leopard, cheetah, zebra and python prints are gone.
Mr. Puglisi transformed these intricate patterns into marble veins in irresistible shades of gray, beige and white, even green, mustard yellow and amethyst.
“I was tired of animal print,” Mr. Puglisi said backstage after the show. “The zebra dates from 20 years ago. »
Mr Puglisi said he was inspired by his personal collection of antique marble.
“I love it madly,” the Sicilian stylist said of the colorful marble found throughout Italy, whether in the villas of Pompeii or the baroque churches of Rome.
At Max Mara, creative director Ian Griffiths opened the show on Thursday with his classic full-length wool coat.
In a collection inspired by the French writer Colette, Mr Griffiths brought sensual volume to the back of jackets, transforming them into ultra-chic bomber jackets, while decorative darts at the hem of long coats added a touch of lightness.