El Popo smokes. Popocatepetl (its official name) emits thick gray smoke which joins a huge cloud which slowly swirls above the volcano.
Only 70 kilometers from Mexico City, El Popo is sometimes visible from the Mexican capital, sometimes not, depending on the degree of ambient pollution. But from the base camp of another large volcano, Iztaccihuatl, it cannot be missed. Sometimes, in the stillness of the night, you can hear muffled explosions that seem to come from inside the volcanic cone.
In the Nahuatl language, the name Popocatepetl means “the mountain that smokes”. Not so long ago, El Popo was a popular destination for hikers and climbers, with its 5,393 meters above sea level. But since a resurgence of volcanic activity in the early 2000s, hikers and mountaineers have stayed away. And look towards its little brother, Iztaccihuatl, much calmer, with an impressive altitude of 5,230 meters.
PHOTO MARIE TISON, THE PRESS
The Iztaccihuatl crest vaguely resembles a reclining woman. You can take very beautiful hikes in the national park which bears its name.
In Nahuatl, her name means “the white lady”. Indeed, from the base camp, with a little imagination and good will, we can think that the summit ridge takes the shape of a reclining woman.
Iztaccihuatl-Popocatepetl National Park has several hiking trails accessible to all, but it’s the Iztaccihualt peak itself that attracts beginner climbers. To promote the process of acclimatization to high altitude, our small group, guided by the Quebec agency Attitude Montagne, intends to camp halfway between the base camp and the summit. As there is no water there, we go back and forth to drop off heavy cans there. Fortunately, the trail is beautiful, with impressive views of El Popo.
We return the next day with the rest of the equipment to set up camp, at more than 4700 meters above sea level. For the view, you will have to go back: we are literally in the clouds. Comfort isn’t there either, but that’s not a big deal: we go to bed quickly to be fresh and ready for a 2 a.m. departure.
PHOTO MARIE TISON, THE PRESS
The morning light gives a spectacular hue to the summit of Iztaccihuatl.
In the cold and the night, we are not as perky as one might hope. The lack of oxygen takes its toll, we climb with desperate slowness. However, the sunrise gives us renewed energy and the summit takes on sumptuous colors. We finally reached it around 7:30 in the morning. From here, you can see the town of Pueblo in one valley, and perceive Mexico, already in a cloud of smog, in another.
PHOTO MARIE TISON, THE PRESS
Rest between two volcanoes on the patio of an inn
Never one without… two!
What do you do after climbing a majestic Mexican volcano? We’re going to climb another one! The objective is the peak of Orizaba, the highest peak in the country, with 5636 meters of altitude.
After a long drive (and a day of rest, anyway!), we set up our tents at the base camp, near the Piedra Grande refuge.
PHOTO MARIE TISON, THE PRESS
The snow-capped peak of Orizaba peaks behind the base camp.
We spend the afternoon practicing our mountain maneuvers in preparation for the final stage of the ascent, which will be done on the glacier: roping up, crampon walking, use of the ice axe. But the base camp is at 4200 meters, there is no ice. So we do the maneuvers on a sandy slope well heated by the sun. It’s a bit of a strange experience.
This time, no half measures, we are going to climb to the top in one go. Which requires a painful departure at midnight, after a very short night of a few hours.
PHOTO MARIE TISON, THE PRESS
Mountaineers admire the crater of Orizaba Peak.
In theory, we should be acclimated to the altitude. In practice, I’m gasping for breath and regretting the workouts I’ve neglected in recent weeks. The first part of the ascent is done in the dark, in a labyrinth of large rocks. But we can see small trains of light on the sides of the mountain: several groups of mountaineers, equipped with headlamps, are attempting the ascent.
Arriving at the foot of the Jamapa glacier, we put on crampons and rope ourselves up. The glacier is steep, you have to climb it in switchbacks, while the sun is rising. It is then that we can see the shadow of Orizaba Peak, a perfect pyramid, extending over the plain. The summit is no longer far away. We arrive there, exhausted, while there is a little Mexican fiesta atmosphere.
We can finally admire the landscape. In the distance, we find Iztaccihualt and next to it, El Popo, who is still smoking.
Attitude Montagne offers a 10-day trip in a small group. Karavaniers offers a 15-day stay, which leaves a little more room for acclimatization.
Visit the Attitude Montagne website
Visit the Karavaniers website