Men’s fashion parades in Milan

(Milan) To parade or not, facing the surge of the Omicron variant? The question has tormented the brands participating in the Milan men’s fashion week which begins this Friday, with a new “phygital” edition mixing physical parades and digital presentations.

Giorgio Armani threw a chill by canceling his January shows in Milan and Paris last week due to the new wave of COVID-19. A taste of deja vu, because it was the 87-year-old maestro who was also the first to give up the parades at the very beginning of the pandemic, in February 2020.

After a period of hesitation, 16 of the 23 flesh and blood fashion shows planned were finally maintained in Milan, including those of major brands such as Fendi, Dolce & Gabbana, Prada and Etro. Eighteen brands have opted for a purely virtual presence, others will present their collections by appointment.

For the Italian Fashion Chamber, there was no question of giving up the parades. “Fashion week is our showcase, which serves as a motor” for the recovery of the sector, and it will be done “in compliance with the regulations in force”, argued its president, Carlo Capasa.

After the black year 2020, Italian fashion, including clothing, accessories, eyewear, jewelery and cosmetics, should see its revenues grow by 20.5% to 82.85 billion euros in 2021, without however reaching the level of before the pandemic.

The prestigious invitation card will no longer be enough to access the parades, where places are limited, it will now be necessary to show your credentials, with a valid vaccination passport, and wear an FFP2 mask.

Italy has paid a heavy price for the pandemic, with more than 140,000 deaths, and is now experiencing, like other European countries, a sharp upsurge in cases, due to the highly contagious Omicron variant, despite a high vaccination rate. .

Optimism despite everything

But for the time of a parade, the pandemic will be put on hold: “moving forward looking to the future with optimism” and the ” made in italy “will be the watchwords in Milan, commented for AFP Federica Trotta Mureau, editor-in-chief of the Italian fashion magazine Mia Le Journal.

Men’s Fashion Week, dedicated to the fall-winter 2022-2023 collections, will run until Tuesday and will see the participation of 53 brands.

The ball will be opened by a physical parade, but in a small committee, of Ermenegildo Zegna, who made his debut on Wall Street in December, thus becoming the first Italian fashion house to be listed in New York.

“The world is changing and so is the way of dressing. The formal becomes informal, high level. We have given a new direction to our brand, based on the “luxury leisurewear”, which generates good results”, explained its CEO Gildo Zegna on this occasion.

Freedom of movement

Men’s fashion trends? “The new elegance is ‘overshirts’, that is to say very loose and flowing sweaters which perfectly replace shirts”, explains Federica Trotta Mureau.

Reflecting the freedom of movement of men’s clothing, a foretaste of the exit from the pandemic, “the stars of the new collections are the oversized down jackets that protect from the cold, as well as the padded nylon pants”, details this fashion specialist.

Colors ? “Rather vivid, but also monochromatic outfits in camel green and gray tones with touches of terracotta”, sometimes matched with “patterns such as stripes, houndstooth and Prince of Wales”.

“The focus is on accessories, which are a real must-have, especially the maxi-bags inspired by the world of travel, to get around town with everything on you,” she continues.

Among the must-haves, she also cites “padded coats fitted at the waist, dressing gowns in pastel shades, sartorial-style jacket-trouser sets and leather jackets”.