It is the emerging Saint-Sauveur district, in the lower town of Quebec, that the Melba restaurant team chose to set up their quarters. Chef Guillaume St-Pierre, who has joined forces in this new adventure with the cooking duo Charles Provencher-Proulx and Alexandra Roy, remains on familiar ground: his renowned establishment Battuto (elected Restaurant of the Year at the Lauriers de la Gastronomie this year) is installed not far away, in Saint-Roch, an adjacent district.
In this pretty setting with clean lines signed APPAREIL Architecture, the chef and his acolytes offer their interpretation of modern French cuisine. The two cooks know each other, having worked in restaurants in Paris and Chantilly before returning to settle in Quebec. The trio met at the Auberge Saint-Antoine restaurant years ago, so when Charles Provencher-Proulx and Alexandra Roy had the desire to open their own establishment, the idea of partnering with their friend came naturally.
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PHOTO SARAH MONGEAU-BIRKETT, THE PRESS
Char steak served with beluga lentils, beurre blanc and cauliflower
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PHOTO SARAH MONGEAU-BIRKETT, THE PRESS
A few a la carte appetizers from Melba during our visit
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PHOTO SARAH MONGEAU-BIRKETT, THE PRESS
Platter of lightly smoked scallops, served with ribbons of squash and marigold petals
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PHOTO SARAH MONGEAU-BIRKETT, THE PRESS
Endives stuffed with hazelnuts, oyster mushrooms, apples and Louis d’Or and chicken quenelle in sauce, with salsify and spinach
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PHOTO SARAH MONGEAU-BIRKETT, THE PRESS
For dessert, Vacherin with creamy honey, poached apples and crispy oats
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PHOTO SARAH MONGEAU-BIRKETT, THE PRESS
The wine list oscillates between “classics, novelties and rarities”.
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“We like French classics, but we present them in an up-to-date way, sometimes adding a local element,” sums up Alexandra Roy. “You can start with a classic sauce that comes from a lesser-known region, like ravigote sauce, but made with Jerusalem artichokes, which are in season, and you add a Comté emulsion on top”, gives the example of Guillaume St Pierre.
The short menu, modulated according to the seasons and inspirations, offers elegant and gourmet appetizers, such as the delectable dauphine potatoes with their chicken and gorria pepper sauce, or an egg remoulade with Nordic shrimps and seaweed. There is also a section of dishes to share, some more refined, others more comforting, in addition to fine desserts. The aesthetics are sought, the flavors are well worked, the techniques, properly executed: no doubt, we are dealing here with the pros.
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PHOTO SARAH MONGEAU-BIRKETT, THE PRESS
Marc Lamarre, Alexandra Roy, Charles Provencher-Proulx and Guillaume St-Pierre
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PHOTO SARAH MONGEAU-BIRKETT, THE PRESS
Melba is located in the Saint-Sauveur district.
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It is also another pro who completes the team. Experienced sommelier Marc Lamarre, who officiated at Le Clocher Penché for 10 years, joined the team a few months before the opening, which has been repeatedly delayed due to the pandemic. “I’m pursuing the style that I’ve developed for almost 20 years, between classics, discoveries and rarities,” sums up the man who is happy to count on a team of professionals in the dining room.
Which is probably not unrelated to the fact that Melba has opted, as we have seen more and more since the pandemic, for a schedule from Monday to Friday, in the evening. And like at Battuto, reservations for the following month open a few days in advance, like November 25 for the month of December. Hurry up if you want your spot!
398 Saint-Vallier Street West, Quebec