Martinique | Pelée, head in the clouds

On September 17, Mount Pelée and the peaks of Carbet were added to the UNESCO World Heritage list. The highest point of Martinique, the absolute jewel of the island, the gray volcano currently at rest attracts hikers.

(Martinique) Responsible for the deadliest volcanic eruption of the 20th century^e century, Mount Pelée had caused nearly 28,000 deaths in May 1902. The explosion followed by a fiery cloud had razed the former economic capital, Saint-Pierre (which today has around 4,000 inhabitants). More than 120 years later, Pelée remains under close surveillance by the Martinique Volcanological and Seismological Observatory (OVSM).

As terrible as it was, this story was certainly not going to prevent our small group of hikers from enjoying the breathtaking views of the “grand lady of the North”, who almost always has her head in the clouds.

But, on a Tuesday morning in June, we are nevertheless worried. It’s raining. Our guide, who is none other than Gilles Vicrobeck, president of the Martinique Hiking Committee, believes that we may have to cancel the outing.

While waiting for the downpour to stop, we discover the DoME (Martinique Experimentation Area) of Grande Savane. The interpretation, exhibition and observation center which can be accessed from Le Prêcheur allows you to find out more about the history of the giant that we are about to climb. Three small semi-troglodyte dwellings have even been dug there which can be rented by hikers. Both the center and the basic accommodation are modern and inviting buildings.

Finally, the rain subsides and we have the green light to begin the ascent. Via Grande Savane (west face), the route takes us along a wide ridge to reach the caldera, which we turn around to go back down via the east face (the Aileron). To make this trip, you must have planned means of transport on arrival. The majority of people start in one direction or the other and go back and forth.

We walk for a little less than four hours, at a good pace. It’s still a sporty hike, which would have been even more so if we had decided to climb to the top of the cone formed after the 1929 eruption, nicknamed “the Chinese” for its resemblance to the pointy hat.

Hikes of all kinds

Mount Pelée and the peaks of Carbet cover almost 14,000 hectares, or 12% of Martinique’s territory. But it is far from being the only hiking region on the island. The TopoGuide lists 35 routes of varying levels of difficulty. Several trails run along the coastline for those who prefer the salty breeze of the Caribbean Sea or the Atlantic to the mountain air.

The next day, with very sore legs, we explored one of these easy and shaded seaside trails, the Diamond Coastal Trail. Departure is from the fishing port of La Taupinière, opposite the restaurant Le Poisson Rouge. To avoid having to make the round trip, you would have to park a car on arrival, at La Cherry.

It’s not the most thrilling of hikes. But if you’re lucky, generally between February and May – in June, we weren’t allowed to – you’ll come across a pink mangrove. In the dry season, high heat causes water evaporation, a reduction in oxygen and therefore an increase in the salinity of the mangrove. These conditions are optimal for the algae Dunaliella salinawhich proliferates and produces a significant amount of beta-carotene, giving it a pink color.

Unless you are interested in botany, the route is especially interesting for its openings onto the sea and the views that these allow of the Diamant rock and Morne Larcher, also called “the reclining woman”, because its profile recalls that of a face and a chest.

At the water !

Of course, we can be satisfied with the countless beaches of the island, whether they are white sand in the South or volcanic gray sand in the North, but a trip to the sea by catamaran is even better. With Calypso Croisières, it is not out of reach, financially. A full day on one of the boats can cost just 95 euros (around $140 CAN) per adult. The “sunset” package (two-hour outing with swimming and rum tasting) costs 45 euros (around $65 CAN).

“Often people think “I’m on a boat, I’m stuck”. But it’s the opposite. The boat is an opening. It’s a swimming platform, it’s a restaurant, it’s a hotel, it’s being immersed with locals who can teach you lots of things about the place,” says Pierre-Walter Varkala, owner of the company established at Anses d’Arlet, in the South. He made the trip to Saint-Pierre, in the north, to show us the coast as far as Case-Pilote, three towns further.

We learn that several dozen species of cetaceans frequent the waters of Martinique. We observe a few of them, including the pantropical spotted dolphin which is said to have settled in the immense Agoa sanctuary in the Antilles. Meanwhile, a delicious meal is being prepared in the kitchenette and rum is waiting on the table!