Marketing-advertising | Should we rename poutine?

Putin or not Putin… The debate may seem futile, as Russian President Vladimir Putin continues his war in Ukraine, but is there a risk that the name of our national dish will become toxic? Opinions are divided.

Isabelle Masse
The Press

Jean-Jacques Stréliski believes that there is a problem with the name of Quebec’s national dish. “It would be anecdotal if ‘poutine’ was only the name of a dish, but it is Quebec’s national dish,” says the associate professor of communication-marketing and brand management at HEC Montreal. Our image is in question. There is unease. More and more, people call me to know what will happen to the name. »

Two weeks ago, the case of the management of La Maison de la Poutine in France, which felt obliged to explain in a press release what the dish was and to affirm its support for Ukraine after having received threats and insults, captured the imagination. ” Even the New York Times talked about it,” notes Jean-Jacques Stréliski.

The professor, formerly an advertiser, thinks that a debate or a contest should take place.

Restaurant owners consulted by The Press are not of the same opinion. “Nothing will change on the menu, confirms Rafael Bordignon, manager of La Banquise, in Montreal. People know how to tell the difference. No one called to complain. »

“People know what poutine is,” says Olivier David, co-owner and marketing director of Poutine & co, which opened its first restaurant in Brossard in early 2022. “We are pro-Ukraine. We work potatoes and cheese! The reputation of the dish is not believed to be tarnished. »

Same arguments on Ashton’s side. “For Quebecers, poutine is comforting, it’s a sign of happiness,” says co-owner Émily Adam. We must not mix the political aspect with comfort. »

Not that easy

Even restaurateurs who are victims of negative comments opt for the status quo, or almost. This is the case of Frite So! which has eight poutines on its menu, including the popular Vladimir. Quickly after the outbreak of hostilities, however, this name changed to that of Volodymyr, first name of the President of Ukraine.

“Changing the name of the poutine is like changing a family name,” says Yannick De Groote, co-partner in research and product development at Frite Quoi!. This is not obvious. Who am I as a Belgian restaurateur to change the name of this dish? At least we changed Vladimir for Volodymyr on our social networks. So as not to force franchisees to reprint their menu, we put an X on Vladimir’s name two weeks ago. »

But what about the reaction of Ukrainians in shock who will take refuge in the country? “By asking, people understand that the name has nothing to do with Poutine,” said Myriam Brouard, assistant professor of marketing at the University of Ottawa. If tomorrow you name something Hitler, the intention is obviously there. In the case of poutine, there is a history in the Quebec imagination, in our culture. Moreover, we are not yet at Hitler’s level, even if the situation in Ukraine is dramatic. »

Examples of harmful associations

Myriam Brouard understands that deplorable associations exist and that brands suffer from them.

When COVID-19 started to spread in North America, Google searches showed that many people were wondering if there was a link between the coronavirus and Mexican Corona beer. “But in the long term, the rational side takes over,” she judges.

Conversely, non-negative sounding names can become toxic in the eyes of people over time. “The town of Asbestos nevertheless changed its name recently [pour celui de Val-des-Sources], notes Stéphane Mailhiot, co-president of the advertising agency Havas Montreal. Would the name of shepherd’s pie be changed if there was an invasion from China? The meaning we give to words and things can change over time. In the case of poutine, it’s premature to think of a change. »

The members of Les Trois Accords, organizers of the Festival de la poutine de Drummondville, were unable to discuss the subject with The Pressbeing in the studio for the recording of their next album.

With Nathaëlle Morissette, The Press