Posted at 12:00 p.m.
Drill a load-bearing wall
Question
Hello, in order to let a little more light through to the dining room, I would like to know if it is possible to make three openings, one above the other, each about 12″ wide and 12 to 18 in. high in a load-bearing wall 60 in. wide and 90 in. high. In addition to letting light pass between the living room and the dining room, these openings would be used to display certain knick-knacks. My spouse, being a bit of a handyman, feels ready to carry out the work. Our concern lies in the fact that this wall is load-bearing. —F. Langlois
Response
Hello, thank you for your question. It is very relevant, and we often receive this kind of question.
In residential construction up to two stories high, wood studs (studs) for load-bearing walls are typically spaced 12″ on center, and may even be 16″ on center. Your opening would therefore require slightly moving two studs to have a space of approximately 13 in., face to face, in order to obtain an additional 1 in. to allow the installation of the drywall, and a spacing of 14.5 in., center on center, since the studs are 1.5″ wide each.
In my opinion, the loads of your house could allow such spacing, but obviously, each project must be analyzed on a case-by-case basis and a visit from an engineer is essential. A virtual meeting can be enough to settle very simple cases, if an official opinion must be given.
Here are some of the additional elements that the engineer would validate: supported floor lengths; if there is a particular load on this portion of the wall in question, such as a beam; the type of floor in order to calculate its load (presence of a concrete screed, bathroom with massive ceramic, etc.); as well as the type of roof structure (prefabricated in the factory or built on site).
That said, chances are your project can be done without too much hassle.
SOS dryer
PHOTO TIM BINGHAM, GETTY IMAGES
The best allies to carry out the work for the dryer ducts are ventilation specialists.
Question
I live in a single-family house that dates back to the 1970s. At that time, a plastic pipe was installed in the wall to evacuate the heat from the clothes dryer. Now this hose (about 3 ft), which was directly plugged into the dryer and continued to the vent that comes out outside, split inside. I wonder if it will be necessary to open the ceiling in the basement or the wall of the room next door. I read a bit on the internet, and they recommend a rigid pipe, but what if the pipe must enter the house? What kind of contractor do you recommend and, above all, how much is this work worth? — Mr Pilon
Response
It is essential to connect the dryer’s humid air extraction correctly to the outside. Yes, you should consider opening the ceiling in the basement and even the wall of the room next door to replace your old plastic pipe.
The material should be rigid, be 4” in diameter, and should not have any screws in its assembly to prevent lint from catching on it. The joints are therefore rather united with an aluminum tape.
The best allies to carry out the work are ventilation specialists. Then, for the walls, it will be necessary to plan to make a repair in the gypsum, which includes plaster and painting work, but this part remains cosmetic. The important thing is to operate your dryer outlet as quickly as possible.