As New Covent Garden wholesale market celebrates its 50th anniversary, it remains a vital hub for fresh produce and flowers in London. Gary Marshall, a third-generation vendor, reflects on the market’s significance and its bustling atmosphere, particularly during early hours. Despite challenges like attracting younger workers and competition from supermarkets, the market thrives, serving top restaurants and florists. With a robust turnover and modernization plans, its future looks bright, ensuring its legacy for generations to come.
As the sun rises over London, Gary Marshall is wrapping up his day at the New Covent Garden wholesale market, the UK’s largest hub for fruits, vegetables, and flowers, which proudly marks its 50th anniversary this year.
“It’s London’s best-kept secret,” shares Jo Breare, the managing director of the market, drawing parallels to its French counterpart, Rungis, located just outside Paris.
On November 11, 1974, the historic Covent Garden fruit and vegetable market, once located in the heart of London, relocated to Battersea in the city’s southwest as part of a modernization initiative led by the Covent Garden Market Authority (CGMA).
Nestled along the south bank of the Thames, the wholesale market is surrounded by stunning skyscrapers that define London’s skyline.
With over 45 years of experience, Gary Marshall is one of nearly 200 businesses that supply grocery stores, restaurants, and hotels throughout London.
Representing the third generation of his family to work there, Gary’s son, George, is set to inherit the family business, Bevington Salads.
“New Covent Garden is a part of us. It will continue to be significant in my son’s life, and perhaps even my grandson’s,” he reflects.
“Once you’re in, you’re in for life,” Gary Marshall confidently states.
– A Magical Atmosphere –
For the approximately 2,000 employees at the market, the day begins around 10 PM. Products arrive from all corners of the globe.
“When we get here, we enjoy a cup of tea and take a moment to appreciate the products. And then, the market springs to life,” shares Gary Marshall, his pride evident.
Vendors engage with their customers face-to-face during the early hours, ensuring that by the time Londoners wake up and head to work or school, their fresh produce has already been delivered, “like magic,” as Gary describes.
Wanda Goldwag, chair of the Covent Garden Market Authority, likens the market in the early morning hours to a small town, bustling with activity.
It even boasts its own post office, operational from 3 AM to 1 PM.
However, attracting younger workers has proven challenging due to the nighttime schedule, a change implemented a decade ago to alleviate London traffic, explains Gary.
Despite facing numerous challenges over the decades, the market and its vendors have demonstrated resilience.
As demand dwindled at the close of the 20th century with the rise of supermarkets, New Covent Garden pivoted towards the hospitality and catering sectors.
– A Flourishing Marketplace –
Today, the market continues to cater to several Michelin-starred restaurants, renowned chefs, and prestigious retailers such as Harrods and Claridge’s hotel.
Among its loyal patrons is French chef Pierre Koffmann, who fondly recalls sourcing fresh ingredients for his three-star restaurant La Tante Claire in the 1980s and 1990s.
“It was always a joy to come here, meet new people, and discuss vegetables,” he reminisces.
Currently, he primarily visits to buy flowers, as the market supplies 75% of London’s florists, according to CGMA statistics.
For Wanda Goldwag, staying relevant in a rapidly evolving landscape is a top priority.
“In these challenging economic times, everyone is being mindful of their spending,” she notes.
Uncertainties loom over the future of other major wholesale markets in London, such as Smithfield meat market and Billingsgate fish market, as their relocation plans remain on hold.
In contrast, New Covent Garden is thriving, boasting a turnover of £880 million (€1.06 billion) last year, with modernization efforts expected to wrap up before the decade’s end and a secured lease for the next 25 years.
“I may not be around in 25 years, but my son definitely will be,” Gary Marshall expresses with a smile.