London Fashion Week | JW Anderson and the dress in all its seams

(London) From the leather tutu to the deconstructed sweater version, the short dress is the centerpiece of the spring/summer 2025 collection of JW Anderson, the brand of Loewe creative director Jonathan Anderson, presented Sunday on the third day of London Fashion Week.

Under the glass roof of Old Billingsgate, a former Victorian fish market in the City district, the Northern Irish designer has produced this garment almost exclusively, varying the materials, shapes and colours, but always in mini length.

A few are summery, in sky blue satin or light pink sequins, but most of them are more worthy of a chilly British summer, borrowing from the winter wardrobe in thick knits and leather.

On some dresses, the buttons of a cardigan, the pocket or the cords of a sweatshirt are printed directly on the fabric. Others are in a sweater version, associated with flat ankle boots with the zipper open, others are downright blazer version, and are sufficient on their own.

Some models wear it in a dancer’s version, with large tutus and leotards in black, brown or khaki leather, and others in a maxi version of the “ball” skirt, which has made a comeback since spring.

Also artistic director of the rising brand of the LVMH group, the Spanish label Loewe, Jonathan Anderson, almost 40 years old, continues to revisit classics in a hybrid version, grafting sweater sleeves or giant knits onto simple white or navy dresses.

London Fashion Week, which continues until Tuesday in the British capital, will also see Londoner Sinead Gorey, designer Erdem Moralioglu and British-Nigerian designer Tolu Cocker walk the runway on Sunday.