Local flavors | Wine invites itself into mead

The Desrochers D. beekeeping farm has always been inspired by wine to make its meads. This inspiration takes on new meaning with its Beezz wine series: meads flavored with the skins of Quebec grapes.

When Naline Desrochers and Géraud Bonnet took over the family farm in 2008, the company had been producing honey spirits for 20 years. Naline’s parents used organic honey and no sulfites. But the young beekeepers wanted to highlight the vinous side of the mead, bring more freshness and completely remove the residual sugar from the cuvées.

To do this, they called on the French winemaker and oenologist Florent Girou. Together, they performed more than 400 tests. They bet on honeys harvested at different times of the year, commonly called seasonal honeys.

The couple of beekeepers is a pioneer, and still one of the only mead producers to ferment with natural yeasts. Again, the motivation came from a winemaker, Olivier Cousin from the Loire, because this practice is more widespread in the wine world.

“We had just done the first nature tests and we needed a kick-start to definitely immerse ourselves in this adventure,” recalls Mr. Bonnet.

Then, in 2016, the Desrochers D. beekeeping farm made a name for itself thanks to its Beezz series, made up of meads with less alcohol and finely sparkling. This time, beekeepers were inspired by bugey-cerdon, sparkling wines from the Savoie region of France.

real honey wine

This inspiration from the wine world became a collaboration two years ago. In the same way that brewers and cider makers are increasingly flavoring cuvées with grape skins, Naline Desrochers and Géraud Bonnet have created new meads with Quebec wine producers.

“We wanted to collaborate with our winegrower friends, but we couldn’t choose just one,” says the beekeeper. We decided to make a series with the three winegrowers we are closest to. »

The couple first called on Matthieu Beauchemin at the Domaine du Nival. He wanted to use the skins of the Vidal grape variety in memory of the first wine that winemakers and beekeepers had drunk together. The exotic fruit aromas of vidal are very similar to those of spring honey. This is how the first honey wine in the Beezz viticultural series was born.

Then, to combine with the aromas of vanilla, cardamom and hazelnut of autumn honey, the beekeepers chose Chardonnay des Pervenches. “When you think of Periwinkles, you think of Chardonnay, that’s obvious, and with the subtly spiced autumn honey, it works too well,” remarks Mr. Bonnet.

The third mead in the series is prepared with grape marc from the Pinard et Filles vineyard. The drink’s subtly pink color comes from Frontenac Gris, whose flavors of citrus, raspberry and strawberry go wonderfully with summer honey.

Nearly 1,000 bottles of each cuvée were produced in 2021. Beekeepers are considering replicating the concept during the 2023 harvest.

Changing Perception

Géraud Bonnet does not hide it: mead is an unknown drink. Its marketing has long been difficult. As the majority of producers did not have enough bottles, they could not access the network of the Société des alcools du Québec (SAQ). The law also banned them from selling in delis until 2016. This change has given the industry a boost, but there is still work to be done.

Mead is one of the oldest alcohols in the world, yet it is one of the least known. According to a survey conducted by the firm Léger last year on behalf of beekeepers, 40% of those questioned were unfamiliar with mead and 26% had never tasted it.

The beekeeper co-founded the Association of Producers of Meads and Honey Alcohols of Quebec (APHAMQ) three years ago. The group has grown from five to more than a dozen members. Beekeepers are working for a Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) Hydromels du Québec to see the light of day soon.

Thanks to this collaboration with vineyards, the Desrochers D. beekeeping farm hopes to change the perception of mead. “This wine series is the culmination of a process to have meads accepted as real wines… of honey! “, he launches.

Two copies of each cuvée of Beezz viticole make up the six-bottle mixed case sold at a cost of $132 (plus taxes) on the website of the Desrochers D beekeeping farm. The bottles, at a price ranging from $22 to $24, will be also available in delicatessens throughout Quebec at the end of June.

To drink

Red and white from Nival

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When Géraud Bonnet, from the Desrochers D. beekeeping farm, arrived at the Domaine du Nival to pick up the Vidal skins, the winemaker was emptying his vat of Gamaret, a red grape, and he offered to bring the skins as well. This beautiful coincidence made it possible to develop a red mead. This one has already been in the grocery store for a few weeks and it is worth the detour with its very fruity notes of raspberry and blueberry. As for the vidal-based mead, the intense flavors of honey fill the glass. Exotic fruits and a hint of bitterness give enough depth to bring the cuvée to the table.

Hydromel Beezz Viticole Gamaret 2021, $22 + taxes, available at points of sale or online

Hydromel Beezz Viticole Vidal 2021, in cases of 6 (online) or individually (points of sale)

Summer honey and Frontenac

All winegrowers say it: Frontenac is a very acid grape variety. The combination is a winner with mead. The scents of red fruits and flowers are omnipresent on the nose. The lively and crisp attack whets the appetite. On the finish, notes of honey prolong the pleasure. Its delicate pink color is perfect.

Hydromel Beezz Viticole Frontenac gris 2021, in cases of 6 (online) or individually (points of sale)

Winey chardonnay

The combination of chardonnay and mead is probably the closest to the texture of wine. Its bouquet opens with notes of spices and on the palate, the drink is enveloping and almost rich.

Hydromel Beezz Viticole Chardonnay 2021, in cases of 6 (online) or individually (points of sale)