Local algae | The Saint-Laurent salt meadow

The question that arises in a gourmet article is whether or not our algae are edible. “We do not know of any toxic specimens in the large algae of the St. Lawrence,” answers Éric Tamigneaux, who teaches in the aquaculture program at Cégep de la Gaspésie et des Îles.

Considering that Fisheries and Oceans Canada lists more than 200 species in Quebec, the land or “merroir” to be cleared is vast. This inventory would also be underestimated, according to our speaker. “The work that focuses on algae stopped in the 1980s, when their identification was mainly done on the basis of shape and color. Since then, genetic identification techniques have allowed us to understand that some algae look alike, but belong to totally different species.”

That said, among those that we know, not all have the same interest in cooking. Some are bland or uninteresting in their texture or shape. However, several contain unique flavors that are just beginning to pique our curiosity.

When Éric Tamigneaux began to take an interest in Quebec algae 15 years ago, he was still considered a dreamer.

The researcher is carrying out an initial project to cultivate algae in a pond which will open the door to other initiatives.

The industry is moving quickly and new players are emerging, he notes. However, they are still few in number and concentrated mainly in Gaspésie, although projects are emerging on the Côte-Nord and the Magdalen Islands.

The “merroir” of the Saint-Laurent

Long confined to sushi counters, seaweed has gradually made its appearance on grocery store shelves. The context is favorable, but the mistake to avoid is wanting to import ideas from Asia without trying to adapt them to North American culture, believes Éric Tamigneaux.

Gaspé-based Seabiosis aims for a certain culinary comfort to conquer new taste buds. The company specializes in the transformation of seaweed, which it sells in the form of relishes, marinades, salads, spices or pestos, “products that consumers can use even if they have never heard of seaweed or ways to prepare it,” says co-founder Élisabeth Varennes, who sources from local seaweed harvesters and aquaculturists.

While interest and demand for the product are increasing, the gap between culinary trends and what we eat every day remains large, according to the director of research and development at Seabiosis.

“People often make a negative association between the stranded seaweed they’ve seen on smelly beaches and edible seaweed. But what we’re offering is seaweed caught directly from the sea, which is fresh, full of flavor, minerals and benefits.” Élisabeth Varennes prefers to talk about seaweed as “sea vegetables” that are prepared like you would an asparagus or a pickle. It’s a question of perception.

A vegetable garden at sea

“There is the same diversity of species and as many differences between a green, red or brown algae as between a fish, a crustacean and a mollusk,” says Antoine Nicolas, who operates Océan de saveurs, considered a pioneer in Quebec in seaweed harvesting. The Gaspé producer is also the only one to benefit from the Fourchette bleue agreement with 200 Metro supermarkets, where its products are now sold.

Without being plants, because they do not have fruits, seeds or roots, algae share with terrestrial plants this way of synthesizing light energy through photosynthesis, he explains. This is why, in our conditions and depending on the transparency of the water, they are found in depths of 0 to 40 m, where there is still light.

“They don’t have the same sector of life, the same behaviors or the same physiology as plants. There are billions of years of difference in their appearance. We are dealing with life forms that are more primitive,” explains the seaweed hunter who, since his beginnings in 2012, has supplied more than 150 restaurants in the province. Our chefs are open to the product, he observes. Sea bacon is a favorite, like sea lettuce with its sorrel or spinach flavor, to give into familiar comparisons. Their taste is, however, unique.

Products to discover

The lush seagrass of the Saint-Laurent

To attract the consumer, The players in the sector are not short of arguments. The range of flavors and textures associated with algae is wide. One of the interests of algae is this umami side which comes from their content of natural glutamate, this flavor enhancer which enhances dishes, sauces and broths. And on this level, as from a taste point of view, the algae from here easily compares to the average of algae from Japan, as concluded by a project led last year by Éric Tamigneaux. The low population density and industrialization of our coastal regions also means that the quality of the water there is exceptional.

Nutritionally, algae are sponges that absorb minerals from the water through all parts of their anatomy. They are rich in nitrogen, phosphorus and iodine, but also in antioxidant molecules that they develop to defend themselves against ultraviolet rays. Some are particularly rich in proteins – nori, for example, which rivals beef in this regard. However, they have the advantage of being low in lipids and high in fiber. Since they have developed alginates that allow them to retain water and avoid dehydrating too much at low tide, they are also used for their thickening properties in several food products.

“In other words,” summarizes Éric Tamigneaux, “there are few reasons not to eat algae from a dietary point of view and many arguments from a taste perspective!”

Visit the Seabiosis website

Visit the Ocean of Flavors website