He was passing through Quebec this week. A two-day whirlwind visit, where he kindly took the time to come and greet me at the house and taste a few bottles.
After more than 30 years in the business – he bought his first vines in Stellenbosch between the overthrow of apartheid in 1991 and the coming to power of Mandela in 1994 – Ken Forrester is a key figure in South African viticulture. Very invested in sustainability, the community and the promotion of fair trade, he is above all a great enthusiast of Chenin, a grape variety that is found mainly in the Loire and which he works in several ways. Here are my impressions of the new vintages that are currently arriving or will begin to arrive at the SAQ.
Drink less. Drink better.
Ken Forrester, Chenin Blanc Reserve 2022, Stellenbosch, South Africa
$18.70 – SAQ code 11093126 – 13.5%
This is Ken’s “signature” wine, a cuvée that gives a good idea of the rest of the production. Perfectly mastered chenin with detailed and well-typed aromas of honey, pear and flower. The balance between rich fruitiness, density and acidity is remarkable. Endowed with great drinkability and offering a saline finish, it is an already delicious white that can improve for ten years without the slightest concern. All that for less than $20!
★★★ $1⁄2
Ken Forrester, Black Earth 2021, Swartland, South Africa
$24.15 – SAQ code 15049211 – 13.5%
It’s Ken’s nod to the ‘hipster’ producers of Swartland, South Africa’s most dynamic wine region. “Natural” chenin, therefore without the addition of synthetic products or sulphite. An original wine with its intense nose of honey, wax, ginger and rubbed pebbles. On the palate, the wine appears more nuanced and drier than the Reserve, with lively acidity and a sustained finish. Very good.
★★★ $$ 1⁄2
Ken Forrester, Dirty Little Secret Three, Piekenierskloof, South Africa
$110 – SAQ code 15081034 – 13%
If the previous wine is a nod to natural wines, this one is a real answer. Not to say, an ode to chenin. It is a blend of three different vintages (2017, 2018, 2019) with a hint of 2020 in order to seek more liveliness. An intense wine of impressive proportions. Complex nose of candied apricot, pear syrup, spices, saffron, truffle, wax, mint and ginger. Magnificent texture, dense and airy at the same time, with a phenolic impression leaving a superb bitterness. Long and caressing while remaining vibrant, it’s a mind-blowing UFO. Great gastronomic wine.
★★★★1⁄2 $$$$$
Ken Forrester, The FMC 2022, Stellenbosch, South Africa
Patrick Desy
$61.75 – SAQ code 15081317 – 14%
Difficult to pass after the Dirty Little Secret, but given its residual sugar content (about 7g-8g), it is best to taste it last. FMC, the name of the cuvée, officially means “Forrester, Meinert, Chenin” in reference to Martin Meinert, friend and collaborator of Ken, but it is unofficially to shout “fucking marvelous chenin”! The 2022 is ample, rich and beautifully textured with tones of apricot, pineapple, floral, honey and a touch of coconut. The acidity seemed to me lower than in the 2021 and 2020 (both superb), but the bitterness of the wine compensates by bringing good drinkability. Another gastronomic wine that will work wonders with Japanese cuisine or cheeses.
★★★ 1⁄2 $$$$ 1⁄2
Ken Forrester, The Misfits Cinsault 2021, Piekenierskloof, South Africa
$24 – SAQ code 15002383 – 13.5%
Ken doesn’t just make chenin. Its production in red deserves your attention, as evidenced by this excellent thirst-quenching red made from Cinsault. A crisp, fruity wine. Strawberry, raspberry, cherry and a touch of smoke. It’s smooth and flowing, it feels like drinking a good Beaujolais. Serve chilled, it is the perfect companion to fight against the heat wave.
★★★ $$
Legend
★ Okay
★★ Good
★★★ Very good
★★★★ Excellent
★★★★★ Outstanding
More stars than dollars: well worth the price.
As many stars as dollars: worth its price.
Fewer stars than dollars: the wine is expensive.