When two of Kamouraska’s most culinary-influential families come together, the result is some seriously good pizza. Perle Morency and Kim Côté, from Côté Est, and Martin Desautels from the Tête d’allumette microbrewery, created Pépita for their respective sons, Lukas and Ariel, among others. They also wanted to open a place for their extended Kamouraska family, an unpretentious restaurant where locals would feel at home.
The kitchen was entrusted to Camila Czielslak, a young chef of Brazilian origin who studied in her country, but also in Montreal, in addition to having spent a full year at the legendary Noma restaurant in Copenhagen, before landing at Côté Est. It was she and Kim who created the recipe for the excellent rye sourdough dough, a cereal that comes from neighbor and friend Samuel Lavoie at Le Raku farm. Samuel is also a winemaker and his wines are often on Pépita’s menu.
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This rye sourdough dough is tasty, cooked longer and at a lower temperature than a Neapolitan, which allows it to reach a nice crispiness. It is not garnished in the traditional way, at least not in the Italian sense of the term. However, it respects the spirit, which is to select the best local ingredients. So there is a delicious pizza with smoked eel, another sprinkled with sea spinach, surf clams and scallops, and then another with seasonal forest mushrooms. In total, seven savory “pies” and a mortadella sandwich make up the no-frills menu.
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To drink, one of the most tempting options is undoubtedly the “house” cuvée made by Louis Dugas, of Trois Moineaux, a group of Quebecers who make wine in Niagara. At $8 for a 6-ounce glass, this aromatic maceration white is a bargain. The house beer is of course brewed by Tête d’allumette. Several other bottles and cans fill the fridges.
A large space was needed to accommodate this beautiful large tribe, which also includes partner Sébastien Beaulieu, manager Samuel Roy and his little brother Thomas Zachary in the kitchen. The former Racoin Café Camping, in Saint-Germain-de-Kamouraska, on Route 132, met the criteria. Its octagonal dining room has been nicely refreshed. And speaking of freshness, Pépita will close in November for the winter, the building not being winterized. There are still a few beautiful months left to enjoy it.
100, route 132 east, Saint-Germain-de-Kamouraska