Italy | Sicilian pearls | The Press

Wherever you are in Italy, the culture that surrounds us is distinct, rich in the particularities of each region. At the tip of the boot, a destination where history, azure water and the spirit of dolce far niente side by side: Sicily.

Last May, The Press spent ten days in the north of the large Mediterranean island. Between isolated oases, seaside restaurants, active volcanoes, the constant chirping of cicadas and all traces of Byzantine and Greek architecture, this corner of Italy is a constant visual, auditory… and gustatory stimulation! Here is a suggested itinerary (keep in mind that the region offers a thousand more options) and some ideas for visits.

Land in Rome

Where to go to get to the big island? Flight prices vary depending on the time of year, of course, but flying directly into Palermo never seems to be the best option price-wise. The northernmost destinations in Italy are often the cheapest, but a good compromise is possible by going to Rome. Depending on the schedule, a day or a night in the old capital allows a first Italian contact before the change of scenery that Sicily will bring. It will then be possible to learn about the Italian rail network, which will be useful to those who do not intend to drive throughout the Sicilian journey. The company Trenitalia serves the territory well and regularly, especially between the big cities. Depending on the time of day, for a hundred dollars it will take between 10 and 13 hours to reach Palermo station. It is also possible to rent a car to reach the south of the country. Count about ten hours on the road, which will allow the brave to follow the west coast and make a few stops – Naples and the Amalfi Coast are about halfway. Flights from Rome to Palermo (one hour flight), as is often the case with intra-European air travel, are very affordable, although we do not favor this option.

Start in Palermo

Sicily differs greatly from the rest of Italy, its culture on the fringes of that of the rest of the boot. It is not in Palermo, the largest city in the region, that the uniqueness of Sicilian culture will surprise you the most. The Sicilian capital is however a good starting point for a journey in the north of the territory. Palermo is as hectic as it is beautiful. As in any big city, some corners are to be avoided. Others call for hanging out there for hours. The most beautiful discoveries will be made by looking up, to admire the architecture of the buildings and monuments that have grown in the city for 3000 years. The Arab conquest left its mark, as did the passage of the Greeks and Carthaginians before that. Churches, many of which are UNESCO World Heritage Sites, are scattered throughout the city. Arab-Norman architecture can be seen at the Cuba Palace (cube-shaped) or at the Zisa, a 12th century castle^e century. The Palatine Chapel is an obligatory stop, at the confluence of Byzantine, Islamic and Western influences. The Mediterranean blends gracefully with the urban atmosphere, the seafront is a beautiful place for a meal or a pure contemplative moment. A little further out from the urban center, Mondello beach is not an essential stop (the place can be crowded), but pleasant. The water is beautiful, the view is worth the detour. By train or car, it’s easy to get from Palermo to an upcoming Sicilian stop.

To the east: Cefalù

The beautiful town of Cefalù is the jewel of northern Sicily (in our humble opinion). For travelers on the move, the slower pace of Cefalù may not be suitable for more than two or three days, but others may find the perfect place to lay down for longer. The coast of Cefalù is breathtaking. The sunsets it offers are all the more stunning (especially from the pier to the north). Although very touristy, the city maintains a restful calm. In the evening, it gets active and you can find your account in different restaurants and bars to party. The old town, full of history, is lovely. In the center, we come across the Duomo di Cefalù, overlooked by the Cathedral Basilica of the Transfiguration (in Norman style) and by La Rocca. The famous rock, moreover, can be climbed for an incomparable view. The ruins of the castle of Cefalù and those of the abbey of Thélème are worth a short walk – the town is best navigated on foot, but the coasts are not lacking. The beaches of Castel di Tusa, Sant’Ambrogio or Caldura are unique and each offer a different view of the bay and the water. As for food, seafood is of course in order, but all the delights of the region are on the menu. The Triscele is a superb address. All along the coast, especially near the large beaches, restaurants abound.

The Aeolian Islands (passing through Milazzo)

From Cefalù, a train or coach heading east will take you to Milazzo, the exit port for the ferries. No need to linger in the city, which is however the ideal transit point to go to the Aeolian Islands. The journey then continues by ferry. The archipelago has 25 islands and islets, including seven main ones. Lipari, the largest and most populated, is home to the capital of the islands, of the same name. You can stay there, in a hotel or an inn. Its monuments, its beaches and its pumice quarries make it a beautiful place to stroll for a day. Starting from there, it is then possible to go to the other islands according to your own schedule – note: for excursions to some of the islands, you have to book in advance, the places for the same day or the next day are more difficult to obtain. Guided tours are organized, and there are tourist offices everywhere in Lipari to organize these tours.

From Lipari to the islands

From Lipari, go to Stromboli, island-volcano, where the fire giant of the same name, still active, reigns. One day is enough and it is convenient to then return to spend the night in Lipari. The island of Vulcano is an often touted stop that isn’t really worth it. Between the strong smell of sulfur and the rugged (black sand) beaches, those who have only limited time in the islands can do without a stopover here. Less known than Lipari, Vulcano or Stromboli, Salina is crossed on foot. The arch pierced by the rock of Percioto and the fishing village Rinella are to be seen. The ascent of Fossa delle Felci, an extinct crater, is also not to be missed. Again, no need to stay on the island, but make sure to catch a ferry back to Lipari. Panarea and its islets are a beautiful destination for a day intended to bask in peace and enjoy an enchanting setting.

More in northern Sicily: Taormina, Catania and Syracuse

Even further east, still in northern Sicily, the cities of Taormina, Catania and Syracuse are must-see places. Between Messina and Catania, Taormina, perched on the mountainside, is home to a Greek theatre, a magnificent public garden (Villa Comunale), the Alcantara gorges and a charming old town. Etna, near the city of Catania and accessible from Taormina, is unmissable when you arrive in Sicily to go to Palermo. The highest active volcano in Europe can be admired from afar or very close: the climb is done without a guide up to 2920 m, then you absolutely must be accompanied to continue the climb. The emblematic city of Catania is also worth a visit during a tour in the northeast. Catania can suit everyone, between its Roman ruins, its beach, its fish market (fishing), its city and its large gardens. Another popular seaside destination is historic Syracuse. Its piazzas promise magnificent architectural discoveries. Several ancient sites are scattered around Syracuse, and the Archaeological Museum, right in the center of town, traces the history of these remains. At the entrance to the city, the temple of Apollo, one of the oldest in the Greek world, welcomes visitors in style. Finally, epicureans, take note: wherever you go in northern Sicily, good wine, arancini (Sicilian speciality), seafood and (of course) good pasta and pizza will delight your taste buds.