Italy | Ischia the confidential

(Forio, Ischia) If you have read the novel The wonderful friend by Elena Ferrante, Ischia will tell you something. But this confidential island, frequented mainly by Neapolitans, lives in the shadow of Capri the glamour for decades. We were there last October, an ideal time to visit the volcanic island with hundreds of thermal springs.

Thermal waters

If there’s one thing to do in Ischia, it’s to spend a few hours in a thermal establishment or in a natural (and free!) spring. The island’s thermal baths have been famous since ancient times and are often buried in lush nature. The first public baths were built during the Greco-Roman period, including those of Cavascura and Nitrodi in Barano d’Ischia, both in the south of the island and still in operation. As a family, we opted instead for the Gardens of Poseidon (Gardini Poseidon Terme), the largest thermal park in Ischia with its twenty pools whose temperature is between 16 and 40°C. We even have access to a very beautiful beach for swimming in the salt water of Citara Bay. A full day here costs around forty euros per person (around $60 CAN).

Another day, at sunset, we discovered the bay of Sorgeto, still to the south, where warm waters gush into the sea. In October, the place was obviously frequented by residents, mostly, but there was no had no crowd. It takes a while to find comfort, between two jets which can easily burn your butt, but it’s great fun to move from one small natural pool to another in search of the perfect “spot”!

Visit the Giardini Poseidon Terme website (in English)

Visit the Cavascura website (in English)

The views

Ischia is a volcanic island and its highest peak, Mount Epomeo, rises to almost 800 meters, from where you can see the entire Gulf of Naples. If you go up there, you’ll want to eat at the Grotta da Fiore to enjoy the scenery. But it’s not only at this altitude that you can have spectacular views. In the towers of Castello Aragonese, in a very small volcanic island reached by a 150 meter long stone bridge, you can observe the east face of the island. The castle can be visited for 12 euros ($18 CAN) per adult.

You can even stay in the old monastery. Renovated quite recently by the grandchildren of the owner, Nicola Ernesto Mattera, this historic place is of rare elegance. Unfortunately, there is only one family suite at the inn, the stunning Altana, and the price was beyond our budget. There are, however, pretty but very simple rooms at 200 euros per night for two.

Visit the Castello Aragonese website (in English)

Where to eat ?

One of the island’s specialties is coniglio all’ischitana, essentially rabbit cacciatore, with tomatoes and olives. Traditionally, Ischia rabbits are raised in caves three or four meters deep. The little creatures then dig a network of galleries allowing them to live in an environment similar to their natural habitat.

The restaurants that serve rabbit with ischitana are located in the mountains and not by the sea. Trattoria Il Focolare is the best known of these establishments, especially after the visit of the gourmet actor Stanley Tucci, as part of his emission Searching for Italy. Eating in this absolutely picturesque restaurant, built in front of a cave where you will be taken at the end of your meal, is an experience. Residents prefer Taverna Verde, in Ciglio. It’s better to book in advance at these places, especially if you want to eat rabbit.

With Naples being less than 20 nautical miles from the island, there are obviously several pizzerias in Ischia. You might not eat the best Neapolitan of your life there, but you shouldn’t eat bad ones either.

Visit the Il Focolare website (in Italian)

What to drink?

The natural wines of Tenuta del Cannavale, an estate located at the foot of Mount Epomeo, are worth it. To get there, you have to park the car then walk into the forest for a good half hour. But what a paradise once at the top!

Gennaro and Anna Manna, brother and sister, planted their vineyard in 2016, on the Cannavale hill, almost 400 meters above sea level. They opted for two indigenous white grape varieties, Falanghina and Biancolella.

At their destination, the winemakers and their families prepared a simple but delicious dinner of bruschetta, salads, cheeses and pasta e fagioli (pasta with beans). It is possible to make a visit by reservation.

Visit the Tenuta del Cannavale website (in Italian)

Where to stay?

OraBlu, a property in the process of becoming luxurious, is recent, not quite finished, which allows the prices to still be affordable for the quality of the apartments. The family of Francesco De Siano, the general manager, also owns the chic San Montano, in Ischia, and the sublime Borgo Santandrea, on the Amalfi Coast. Since our stay, the unit we rented has been equipped with a superb (small) infinity pool with a view of the entire Forio Bay. “My family has experience in hospitality, but renting apartments is new to us. »

The focus was on the kitchens of the 13 apartments. Ours was magnificent, open, bright. “This is what differentiates this type of accommodation from a hotel,” Francesco explains to us. We can even organize a cooking class for customers who would like to spend the day around the island. The table is at the heart of the Italian experience. You should take advantage ! »

In addition to the comfort and beauty of the place, there is a small path on the property which goes down to a pretty beach mainly frequented by residents.

Visit the OraBlu website (in English)