In search of inexpensive and “drinkable” wines

A reader asks me, in these times of inflation, to suggest more often wines at low prices.

Veronique Rivest
Sommelier, guest collaborator

It specifies “drinkable” wines. Which is reassuring: she is fully aware that in the low price range, there will be no complex wines. Among the first prizes, we are simply looking for something that is “drinkable”.

This is a subject that tears me apart. I am torn between my desire for democratic wine, accessible to all, and that of favoring responsible agriculture and healthy drinking. Unfortunately, the vast majority of wines at very low prices come from industrial agriculture, and often also stuffed with additives or highly processed.

We became aware of what we eat a long time ago. Grocery products with a long list of ingredients that seem to come from a laboratory rather than a field, they are increasingly avoided. The romantic idea of ​​wine as simply fermented grape juice is often very far from reality. Just like in the food industry, dozens of additives and transformation processes are also authorized in the wine industry.

There is also an ethical question. If we pay $12 for a bottle of wine at the SAQ, how much does the winemaker get? Is it a model that allows him to live? To treat its employees well?

On the SAQ website, it is possible to see how the price of a bottle of wine sold in its network is distributed.

For a $15 wine on the shelves, the winemaker will receive $5.33. It’s not just for the wine: in addition to cultivating the vines and making the wine, the winemaker must also pay for the bottles, corks, labels, crates, storage and shipping.

A very high-end cork can cost $1.30! Of course, it won’t be the cork in your $12 bottle. Then, the winemaker also pays fees to the agency that represents him in Quebec. In short, it does not leave much in his pockets. And this example is for a continuous supply wine. For a specialty wine, the winemaker will receive an even lower percentage of the sale price.

Sustainable and responsible viticulture

Then comes the question, essential for me, of encouraging sustainable agricultural practices. Viticulture is far from perfect. Starting off, it’s a monoculture. Not worrying about biodiversity today is unforgivable. I no longer want to support winegrowers who use herbicides, pesticides, chemical fertilizers. I want to encourage those who practice sustainable and responsible viticulture, in order to help regenerate our lands and produce real local wines; those who treat their employees with respect and are involved in their community. And all of this has a price.

We are indeed in a time of inflation. Everything costs more. Today we can no longer produce wine at $2 or $3 a bottle. At least not ethically. Even organic certification leaves room for unsustainable agricultural practices and guarantees absolutely nothing as to employment practices. On the other side, there are many winegrowers who work in an exemplary way without any certification.

How then do we know what are the cultivation methods, the additives used, if the employees are well treated? Today, no indication on a bottle informs us about it. You have to do your research, educate yourself, and beware of wine marketing with all its unverified claims.

A high price unfortunately does not always guarantee quality or sustainable or fair practices. On the other hand, a floor price is very likely an indicator of more industrial or unfair practices.

The adage drink less, but drink better, is more relevant than ever.

Three Suggestions

Between $15 and $20, the choices of good wines are numerous. At or around $15, they’re pretty tight. But there is always a little. Here are three currently available.

Castelo Rodrigo Beira Interior 2021

The Beira Interior region is inland, near Spain and south of the Douro. It is the most mountainous in Portugal. In this cuvée from a local cooperative, four indigenous grape varieties are blended to give a dry, fresh and fruity wine. Notes of yellow apple and citrus, juicy fruit on the palate and delicate bitterness on the finish make this a surprisingly well-crafted wine at this price. Simple, but more than satisfying.

Castelo Rodrigo Beira Interior 2021, $15.20 (14431223), 13%, organic

Calabuig Wine from Spain 2020

The second most widely grown red grape in Spain after Tempranillo, Bobal has long been used for bulk wines — it can be very productive. Concentrated in the regions of Castilla La Mancha, in the center, and Valencia, on the east coast of the country, it is today revalorized by several winegrowers. Its many very old vines and its ability to retain acidity in hot climates make it an excellent candidate for quality wines. Here is a simple version offered by the Calabuig family. A nice nose of red fruits opens the ball, simple, but clean and frank. Dry and rather light, barely tannic but with a certain grip and a somewhat rustic character, it is indeed proof of freshness and will be better slightly chilled.

Calabuig Wine from Spain 2020, $13.25 (14189932), 12.5%, organic

Cazes Heading to the South Pays d’Oc 2020

Domaine Cazes has been present on our market for a long time, and was among the first to offer us organic wines. And great value wines, like this one. A blend of equal parts Grenache and Syrah, it offers a lovely fruity and spicy nose. The mouth is round, with a ripe and fruity substance. Dry, fresh and juicy, with very light tannins, this is a simple but amusingly well-made wine that is well worth the price.

Cazes Cap au Sud Pays d’Oc 2020, $14.65 (12829051), 13%, organic