This text is part of the special Pleasures notebook
When we mention the word “ pub”, we inevitably think of England. The number of pubs is one of the emblematic characteristics of London. Beers, whiskeys, gins and other alcohols have been served there since the Middle Ages. But what do we eat there today?
Diminutive of ” public house “, the pub is more than just a place to eat, it is also the social hub of a neighborhood. There are historic ones as well as more contemporary ones, and on every street corner. Exploring London’s neighborhoods through these pubs is a great way to delve into the history, culture and gastronomy of the city.
THE innsinns, were established to facilitate the provisioning and rest of travellers and their mounts. Simple, seasonal dishes were offered by the innkeeper to accompany beer, which has always been part of the British diet.
Slowly, breweries and inns became more commonly known as pubs. Some retained their vocation as inns offering rooms in their boutique pubs, and others took the turn of catering.
The UK pub scene has seen a rise in the number of gastropubs, which are creating more elaborate dishes, often using locally sourced ingredients. Some have even won awards, proving that pub food can now be a culinary experience.
Historic Pubs
Just off Borough Market in Southwark is one of London’s oldest pubs: The George. Built in 1676, it is the last pub with galleries and is protected by the National Trust. Charles Dickens is said to have dined there. The inn is mentioned in his novel Little Dorrit. Some traditional dishes make up the menu: green pea and mint soup, steak and ale pie (beef and ale pie) and fish and chips. However, the menu remains quite eclectic and contemporary. The establishment offers, as an accompaniment, beers from the Greene King brewery, which manages this historic place.
Belgravia is home to a magnificent pub with swirling foliage etched on its windows, Paxton’s Head. Renovated by architect GD Martin between 1900 and 1902, the building pays homage to Joseph Paxton, the architect of the nearby Crystal Palace. Owned by Greene King, Paxton’s Head offers a menu similar to The George, including the delicious Devon crab terrine served on sourdough croutons.
In the heart of Notting Hill lies The Sun in Splendour, clad all in yellow and built in the late 1840s, making it the oldest pub in the area. Its specialty remains the traditional fish and chipsbut the menu includes other delights, as assistant manager Rayna Lavado points out: “The most ordered dish is, of course, our beer-battered haddock served with fries, followed closely by our sausages with mashed potatoes clotted cream (crème fraîche). Our steak and ale pie is also popular.” The pub is keen to offer local produce, such as Portobello Road gin, which is made just a short walk from the pub. Being independent, it offers a good range of local beers from Camden and Fuller’s breweries as well as seasonal beers from different regions of the UK.
Story pubs
Every pub has its own story, its own anecdotes, as Vishnu Nagla, a waiter at the Cambridge, can attest. “What sets us apart here: it was the Sex Pistols’ pub! It all started here, they were there all the time. Interesting, isn’t it?” he says, smiling. The Cambridge, built in 1887, is located in the heart of Soho, in the heart of the theatre district. A favourite with audiences and actors alike, this pub serves traditional dishes, but its speciality is undoubtedly the magpies (pies). Vishnu Nagla recommends the “ British steak & Nicholson’s Pale Ale pie », accompanied by mash and roasted carrots with thyme.
Mr Fogg’s pubs, meanwhile, take us on a journey around the world in less than 80 days, in the time it takes to have a cocktail. Inspired by the famous explorer Phileas J. Fogg, from Jules Verne’s novel, these immersive pubs take us back to the Victorian era. For a traditional menu, Mr Fogg’s tavern offers ” pigs in a blanket “, small sausages wrapped in bacon, and ” scotch eggs “, half-boiled eggs coated in sausage meat, all fried.
These few establishments visited are only a tiny part of the long list of pubs in London. The region has some 3,000 public housesthere are so many more to discover!
Taste traditional British dishes
The author was a guest for a few nights of VisitBritain, who had no say in the text.
This content was produced by the Special Publications Team of Dutyrelevant to marketing. The writing of the Duty did not take part in it.