The ship begins to vibrate. Slowly, the Maud glides along the quay to leave Reykjavik, the capital of Iceland, and head towards a first stopover, Heimaey, in the south of the country.
After a somewhat stormy night of navigation, it is a pleasure to slip between volcanic islets to dock peacefully in the heart of the small town.
The team from Hurtigruten, a cruise company of Norwegian origin, has prepared different types of activities to visit the community: a short cruise around the islets to observe the bird colonies, a classic guided tour of the city, a walk focused on history or even the ascent of a volcanic cone.
How can you resist this last hike? Especially since this famous cone is closely linked to a central event in the history of Heimaey. On January 23, 1973, a lava flow suddenly escaped from a fissure and threatened the city. Fortunately, it was stormy that day and all the fishing boats were in port. We were able to evacuate the entire island in a short time. The lava continued to flow for weeks, months. The authorities, determined to save what remained of the port and the city, sprinkled the lava with seawater to cool it. The flow actually slowed its progress and the eruption ended on July 3, 1973. But all this lava enlarged the island of Heimaey by two square kilometers, making it 11.2 km2 13.4 km away2.
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PHOTO MARIE TISON, THE PRESS
We can clearly see the lava flow that threatened Heimaey.
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PHOTO MARIE TISON, THE PRESS
A wall of hardened lava welcomes hikers.
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PHOTO MARIE TISON, THE PRESS
It’s smoking and bubbling in Seltun, on the Reykjanes peninsula.
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PHOTO MARIE TISON, THE PRESS
What remains of a cistern, crushed by lava.
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PHOTO MARIE TISON, THE PRESS
Who says Iceland says horses.
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PHOTO MARIE TISON, THE PRESS
The trail passes through various ecosystems.
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PHOTO MARIE TISON, THE PRESS
Muriel Bulhoff gives a short geology lesson along the way.
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PHOTO MARIE TISON, THE PRESS
On the crest of the volcano
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From the start of our hike, we came face to face with the wall of hardened lava that threatened the port. A tank was swallowed halfway, showing the force of the flow.
We tread on ground of fine volcanic grit, then cross an area where small bushes have begun to take root. We are starting to gain a little altitude. The ship’s geologist, Muriel Bulhoff, takes the opportunity to show different types of volcanic rocks: one is full of holes, light, another is smooth, more compact. Some are red, others black.
One last effort and we arrive at the top of the cone, on the crest of the crater. At the very bottom, you can clearly see the lava flow which caused a lot of damage in 1973. The weather is nice, the island is peaceful. It’s hard to imagine the panic that gripped the community 50 years ago.
Yes, it’s beautiful, it’s peaceful… It’s as difficult to imagine as the remains of the hurricane Lee will make the sea perilous tomorrow, and that the big crossing which was planned towards the Faroe Islands will have to be postponed until the day after tomorrow!
The Hurtigruten team is quickly crafting an alternative route: a return to the Reykjanes peninsula, on the main island of Iceland, for shelter. This peninsula is characterized by lava fields as far as the eye can see. The last eruption ended last August.
There is still action under our feet. In Seltun, whistling, gurgling sounds are heard: steam escapes from small holes, water springs of various colors and mud holes boil. A smell of sulfur spreads. The land of Iceland is very much alive.