This text is part of the special book Plaisirs
Are you spending a few days in the City of Light this summer and want to get away from the hordes of tourists invading the Eiffel Tower, the Café de Flore, Montmartre or the banks of the Seine? Here is a short guide inspired by the habits of Parisians.
A tasty change of scenery
If the classics of French gastronomy are no longer to be presented, there is a dish that it is unthinkable not to taste during a stay in Paris: couscous, originating from the Maghreb and which has been one of the favorite dishes of the French since many years. There is an extraordinary one at Butte-aux-Cailles, Chez Mamane. His couscous with leg of lamb is simply stunning and the warm atmosphere — we chat with our table neighbors, usually long-time regulars, in the most natural way possible — makes the experience all the more memorable. . The couscous from the authentic Parisian bistro Le Vicq d’Azir is also to be tried, in an equally delicious lunch menu. A few steps from the latter, another bistro, the Palissade, is also worth a visit.
In the charming setting of the Sainte-Marthe district, you can enjoy cuisine influenced by France and Japanese izakayas, as well as cocktails and natural wines carefully chosen by the team. To end this culinary adventure, go near La Chapelle, one of the Indian districts of Paris, and in particular at the discreet Naina restaurant. In a sober decor lit up in green neon, you can eat excellent naans and parotas, as well as stunning butter chicken and palak paneer.
A bubbling culture
The Center Pompidou, also called Beaubourg, is an essential French, even European, cultural institution. Although its temporary exhibitions have made it famous since it opened in 1977, its permanent collections of modern and contemporary art are less frequented by tourists and are a delight for Parisians, who can spend hours admiring the masterpieces of Kandinsky, Picasso, Otto Dix, Frida Kahlo, Marcel Duchamp, Louise Bourgeois or even the famous triptych Blue I, Blue II, Blue III by Joan Miro. Paris also has countless galleries, but we will remember the Ketabi Bourdet gallery, in the Saint-Germain district, which notably presents the rising star of contemporary visual art, Inès Longevial.
World capital of dark rooms, with nearly 90 cinemas, Paris is also a paradise for film buffs. Inaugurated more than a century ago, in 1921, and rehabilitated at the turn of the 2010s, the Luxor is a jewel of the 7e art. Parisians go there first for its rich arthouse programme, but also for its nostalgic and gleaming Egyptian decor, and its terrace which offers a breathtaking view of the Sacré-Coeur and the lively district of Barbès. . Music lovers are also delighted, since Paris is home to several dozen legendary performance halls, including La Maroquinerie, La Cigale, La Boule Noire, the New Casino, the Olympia, the Trianon, the Bataclan, and the Élysée Montmartre, for example, which host shows year-round.
And for visitors who like to hunt for vinyl, the Major Tom record store, located at Ground Control, a place of Parisian cultural life near the Gare de Lyon, offers more than a thousand references and regularly organizes musical events.
nature and architecture
Head to Place du Colonel Fabien in the 19e district of Paris to discover and visit the headquarters of the French Communist Party. The astonishing retro-futuristic building designed by the Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer and built between 1969 and 1980 intrigues and impresses Parisians, but not only, who go there during temporary exhibitions and take the opportunity to visit these places which seem almost unreal. The cupola under its white dome, which can accommodate conferences of some 300 people, and the hall, with its green carpet and designer furniture, indeed seem straight out of a 1970s science fiction film.
In this regard, feature films like The foam of the days by Michel Gondry or At office ! by Quentin Dupieux were partly filmed in this iconic space, just as fashion shows (Prada, Jean-Paul Gaultier and Kanye West’s brand, Yeezy) were organized there. The roof terrace of the Espace Niemeyer is also accessible for a breathtaking view of the capital.
Change of scenery with the Villa Poissonnière, an alley from the 18e district which houses houses with lush gardens and grants its residents and passers-by a moment of respite, at the antipodes of the hustle and bustle of the surroundings. In the 19e neighboring Butte Bergeyre also allows these bucolic moments thanks to a shared garden and a vineyard, the Clos des Chaufourniers, where Chardonnay and Pinot Noir vines grow, as well as a panoramic view of Paris.
Explore Saint-Ouen
On Sundays, Parisians head to Saint-Ouen, a suburb north of the capital, for the famous flea market. You can find art and design antiques, the rarity of which justifies the high prices, as well as inexpensive curiosities, such as pins or postcards.
A stone’s throw away, the Bauer stadium hosts the matches of Red Star Football Club, this initially communist but still very popular soccer club which advocates tolerance, has some of the most loyal supporters in France. Just opposite, the Olympic is a neighborhood bar where everyone goes to have a beer before and after games, in a festive atmosphere.