How to plant bare rooted trees

What does “bare roots” mean?

A bare root tree is a tree that has been pulled up without retaining soil around the roots.
This ancestral and very economical practice is now almost completely abandoned in favor of transplanting in clods or in containers which have become the norm in green space sites.

What is the reason ?

Even if there is a technique to preserve the uprooted trees in bare roots over several weeks without risk *, the container is very practical for transport but not suitable for large subjects and the root ball, although heavy accepts delays between l longer uprooting and planting. But in reality the bare root is a much more interesting technique.

In what capacity?

1. A rooted tree settles 2-3 three times faster than a root ball or container tree. So if planted early enough in the season, it will hardly need care during the following summer and not at all during the second and third year when the others will need to be ‘bottle-fed’ for. at least 2 years.

2. Staking is much easier and a single tutor is sufficient

3. Transport is simpler because the tree is lighter, whereas even a well-packed root ball can always break.

4. Rooting from bare roots is better diversified (main and secondary roots) and anchoring will be better in the long term.

How to plant a tree in RN?

You must first make a large hole, 1 meter on each side and at least 50 cm deep, in order to aerate the soil well and provide the roots with a large volume to colonize.

Plant a solid and well calibrated stake at the bottom of the hole (very important to install it before the tree) which avoids injuring the trunk with the mass by driving the stake.

Partially backfill the bottom so that the collar of the tree, when planted, is slightly above ground level.

Position the tree, after having “dressed” ** the roots, then backfill around and between these roots by tamping the earth so that it is firmly in place.
There will remain a little extra soil, this is normal, this is called the expansion and with this extra soil we make a bowl shape around the tree (not a mound).

It will only remain to sprinkle copiously the bowl in order to put the earth in place and to avoid air pockets.

Finally there is the staking to be done with a natural link such as sisal string by making a dead turn around the stake to prevent the link from slipping.
During the first days there will be a natural settlement and the tree will descend a little, that’s why you have to put the collar a little above the level of the ground which is around.

Supply of fertilizer, manure?

Fertilizer is not necessary for the recovery of a tree, on the other hand a contribution of organic matter is very desirable:
Old manure, but do not put it in direct contact with the roots (at the bottom of the hole or on the sides), well decomposed compost, peat or potting soil mixed with the earth to make a “buffer” effect are a very good contribution.
An intake (in addition) of cornaille or feather meal is also good because it provides both minerals and organic matter.

* Conservation of bare roots over the medium term.

Torn trees can be kept for a good week in a cool cellar or barn with good air humidity, for example using beaten earth. You can also cover the roots with a little hay or straw to limit the risk of frost.
Then, for longer periods, there is the technique of gauging:
In sand or in earth, it is enough to dig a shallow hole, just to receive the roots of the trees and to cover these roots with the soil taken out of the hole, being careful to avoid large modes. In this way, the roots, which do not need to nourish the leaves with water, remain in a moist environment. They do not wrinkle and retain all their ability to restart as soon as the conditions are good (final planting). But this technique is a bit time-consuming, professionals practice it less and less

** Root dressing
Consists of cutting back the roots to eliminate the parts that were too injured when pulling out, shorten those that are too long (the interesting length to keep corresponds to about 15 times the diameter of the root at its birth), eliminate the rootlets which are generally withered and which will no longer be able to capture water (the rootlets, the scalp, are the first roots to suffer from tearing).

Make clean cuts with a sharp pruning shears to leave a smooth scar.
It is also necessary to make the cuts perpendicular to the root in order to have a scar of the smallest possible area.

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