Life sometimes takes detours which later allow the realization of an even more accomplished dream. This is the case at La Marelle, where the skillfully balanced cuisine of young chef Carlos Melgar shines through.
The founding trio, composed of Carlos, Brendan Lavery Breier and Taylor D’Ottavi, first met at the now defunct Public House. Already at the time, Carlos and Taylor were talking about one day opening “La Marelle”. But they first ended up at Air-conditioned Room, a popular restaurant opened in 2021 by Brendan and Harrison Shewchuk, at the corner of Saint-Laurent Boulevard and Beaubien Street.
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PHOTO DOMINICK GRAVEL, THE PRESS
Under this jumbled arrangement of sorrel and Louis D’or cheese hides raw and cooked kohlrabi.
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PHOTO DOMINICK GRAVEL, THE PRESS
The tender steak and maitake licked by the flames of the Japanese grill constitute the “strong” dish of the menu.
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PHOTO DOMINICK GRAVEL, THE PRESS
The superb maitake mushrooms are licked by the flames.
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PHOTO DOMINICK GRAVEL, THE PRESS
Taylor D’Ottavi chooses La Marelle wines.
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When Aaron Langille, chef-owner of the late Diplomate, a few steps from Salle airconditioned, decided to get rid of his premises, the three friends saw the opportunity to expand a little. It was about a year ago.
With its second room at the back, which can be privatized, the space accommodates at least forty guests. At the front, the layout has remained the same as at the time of the “Diplo”, with a very long counter behind which the kitchen team is busy. It is one of the pleasures of this unique place to admire the chefs taming the Japanese grill and carefully preparing the dishes.
To bring the space to his taste, Brendan once again called on the man who gave a very relaxed personality to the Air-conditioned room, the great decor designer François Séguin. His son, Gabriel Scott Séguin, also participated. The walls are decorated with paintings by the painter Susan G. Scott, wife and mother in this illustrious family. The result is particularly warm.
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PHOTO DOMINICK GRAVEL, THE PRESS
The long bar, from which you can observe the kitchen
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PHOTO DOMINICK GRAVEL, THE PRESS
You can feel the warmth of La Marelle from the outside.
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PHOTO DOMINICK GRAVEL, THE PRESS
Chef Carlos Melgar heats up the konro, Japanese grill.
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PHOTO DOMINICK GRAVEL, THE PRESS
Carlos Melgar, Taylor D’Ottavi, Cédric Larocque, Sarah-Jane Patry and Brendan Lavery-Breier make up the La Marelle team.
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PHOTO DOMINICK GRAVEL, THE PRESS
Sarah-Jane Patry and Taylor D’Ottavi are waiting for you!
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With its playful name, La Marelle wants to be part of these inviting “bistronomic” addresses where you can easily have a drink and a dish at the counter (or more, if you like!).
The menu is short, with around ten options on the slate, including desserts. Of Salvadoran origin, a Montrealer for 11 years, Carlos is another of those chefs who perfectly embody the current culinary identity of the metropolis. We could not reduce its cuisine to a single heritage. Certainly, the French basics are there, with a terrine, trout sprinkled with brunoise, poached pear, etc. But these sit alongside a golden aguachile and a veal sweetbread placed on a relajo sauce, whose mixture of peppers and spices can recall Mexican mole.
Taylor suggests accompanying these non-flat dishes with beer (Labatt 50 or Wills!) or wine. Someone who has worked in restaurants in the four corners of the world has a palate for artisanal wines that are straight and taut like I. La Marelle is a balancing act.
129, rue Beaubien West, Montreal