Haute couture week spring-summer 2024 on the catwalks, but also in the galleries and on the screens

Thirty houses are listed on the official calendar for haute couture week which takes place from January 22 to 25, 2024.

France Télévisions – Culture Editorial

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Stéphane Rolland fall-winter 2023-24 haute couture show, July 4, 2023. (JULIEN DE ROSA / AFP)

After the Fall/Winter 2024-25 Men’s Fashion Week, it is the turn of Parisian haute couture to walk the catwalks from January 22 to 25, 2024. Thirty houses are listed on the official calendar, including a new guest member, Peet Dullaert. The big names in haute couture are present – ​​Schiaparelli, Dior, Chanel, Armani, Gaultier, Valentino, Fendi – but we will also rediscover the creations of maison Margiela and Robert Wun, two houses back on the calendar.

Stéphane Rolland and students from IFM and Esmod Paris

On Tuesday January 23, it is at the Salle Pleyel that Stéphane Rolland presents his spring-summer 2024 collection with this season, in the first part of his fashion show, the show Sharing student fashion designers from the French Fashion Institute and Esmod Paris. More than a fashion show, this collaboration marks a transmission of techniques and know-how.

During a quarter, the designer gave several master classes in these two schools with different DNAs: “We are on the other side of the mirror, they are in the making. Our role was to explain to them what haute couture is and its specificities. We have the experience to pass on the information to them and to help them for their future “These students, in their final year, are ready to start working life and for some, there are still so many questions. This is a generation that is quite worried and needs to be reassured and put on the right track.”

Peet Dullaert: contemporary vision and social commitments

New guest, Peet Dullaert is a 33-year-old designer of Dutch origin who loves floaty silhouettes and sculptural dresses. Created in 2012 when the designer was only 23 years old, her brand aims to shake up the world of luxury by rethinking its production cycles and encouraging a move towards more responsible practices.

Designed in Paris, the pieces reflect a poetic universe, imbued with freedom of movement and timeless sensuality. These creations sculpt the body and adorn it with subtle details, such as the small baroque pearls that line the straps and delicate clasps. Although he is committed to the dream of luxury, the designer does not forget his values. This is demonstrated in particular by the initiative Care for Earth – Plant for the Future which contributes to the planting of trees in the Amazon rainforest and donates part of its profits to the Trees for the Future organization. With this project, Peet Dullaert affirms a contemporary vision that associates fashion houses with strong social commitments.

“Iconic Avedon” and “Lisa Fonssagrives-Penn” exhibitions

Opening during haute couture week, Iconic Avedon: A Centennial Celebration of Richard Avedon, at the Gagosian gallery, traces the career of an icon maker. Often attributed to his photographs, the term “iconic” applies as much to the works as to their author. Here it is used in the title of the exhibition to highlight its influence on today’s culture.

This exhibition testifies to his deep ties with the French capital which was his first source of inspiration. After traveling to Paris in 1947, Richard Avedon returned frequently to photograph Fashion Week collections for Harper’s Bazaar Then Vogue. He collaborated with editors like Carmel Snow, Diana Vreeland and Nancy White, but also designers like Christian Dior, shaping a bold new vision of the modern woman and making the big city shine after World War II. Representing his models in movement and in the street, freed from the confined confines of the studio, he produced some of his best-known photographs in Paris, notably Dovima and the elephants And Brigitte Bardot. It was also in Paris that he took the portraits, evoking the elegance of the mid-20th century and now considered classics, of Dorian Leigh, Suzy Parker, Coco Chanel and Alberto Giacometti, which are presented in this exhibition.

Singer Tina Turner photographed by Richard Avedon, in New York, June 13, 1971. (THE RICHARD AVEDON FOUNDATION / GAGOSIAN)

Please note, from February 28, the exhibition Lisa Fonssagrives-Penn Fashion icon at the MEP will present the personal collection of the woman who was the greatest model of her time. More than a model, Lisa Fonssagrives-Penn fully participated in the development of the photographs for which she posed. Most were taken in the studio, which required hours of preparation and a real bond between the photographer and his model.

With nearly 150 prints made from the years 1935 to 1955 by masters of photography such as Horst P. Horst, Irving Penn, Louise Dahl-Wolfe and Erwin Blumenfeld, the exhibition offers an overview of the golden age of photography fashion, magnified by an exceptional personality. Tom Penn, son of Lisa Fonssagrives-Penn and Irving Penn, donated part of this set to the MEP collection.

Series devoted to Balenciaga, Dior and a documentary on Lagerfeld

Fashion history enthusiasts are served with the Spanish series Balenciaga on Disney+ and the American series The New Look dedicated to Christian Dior (from February 14) on Apple TV. Disney+ will also announce the broadcast of The Kaiser, dedicated to Karl Lagerfeld, currently in the final stages of production. The German designer is currently the protagonist of a four-episode documentary on Canal+ directed by Guillaume Perez and Anne-Solen Douguet.

With Balenciaga (six episodes) and The New Look (ten), two visions confront each other in an era that shook Europe: before and after the Second World War. Paris is then the epicenter of the cultural world, particularly fashion. A whole generation of couturiers parade there and impose their style: Coco Chanel, Jeanne Lanvin, Elsa Schiaparelli… and the Spaniard Cristóbal Balenciaga, who arrives in the French capital from San Sebastián, in the Basque Country, and makes his first parade in 1937. “Cristóbal was the only real couturier among us all. The others were just stylists”declared Coco Chanel about this competitor with whom she shared a mutual admiration and rivalry.

The June calendar shaken up by the Olympic Games

If in January 2024, Parisian spring-summer 2024 couture keeps its dates, the following season will exceptionally be held on new dates due to the Paris Olympic Games. The spring-summer 2025 men’s fashion week will take place from June 18 to 23 and the fall-winter 2024-25 haute couture week from June 24 to 27, 2024. A quicker sequence than usual since both Fashion weeks are usually spaced one week apart.


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