(Paris) Long a privilege of women, haute couture is opening up to the man who leaves the black tuxedo and dares more and more embroidery, feathers and sequins for the red carpet and other exceptional events.
Masculine looks seen during Haute Couture Week in Paris which ends on Thursday: “It’s recent and it shows the idea of exploring couture in the field of men’s wardrobes. The red carpet today is as masculine as it is feminine, it is an important element, ”analyzes Serge Carreira, lecturer at Sciences-Po, luxury specialist interviewed by AFP.
American actor Billy Porter, 53, broke the codes with his hybrid tuxedo-crinoline dress outfits, just like Timothée Chalamet, in a backless jumpsuit in Venice last year.
“There are more and more men who allow themselves to be fancy and to be more stylish. It is the return of the culture of the XVIIIewhen men, kings and aristocrats were not afraid to dress up and be flamboyant,” Pierre Alexandre M’Pelé, editorial director of GQ France.
gender fluidity
American Thom Browne and Frenchman Charles de Vilmorin, newcomers to this haute couture week, mixed genres on the catwalk as naturally as possible.
The first with gray suits, his trademark, for him and for her, as well as futuristic coats.
The second with a unisex wardrobe in which pieces can be worn by both women and men.
“If the others don’t necessarily do it, I have to do it. In real life, there are a lot of men who wear haute couture,” Charles de Vilmorin, 26, told AFP.
The ready-to-wear collections are for the most part mixed, but haute couture with its evening dresses and vertiginous heels, was until now a privilege of women.
Sequined suit with white train: Indian designer Rahul Mishra initially did not plan to have it worn by a man.
PHOTO SARAH MEYSSONNIER, REUTERS
American Thom Browne mixed genres on the catwalk as naturally as possible with gray suits, his trademark, for him and for her, as well as futuristic coats.
“The bespoke jackets, coats weren’t made with that intention, but when we got here we fitted them on the boys and they looked amazing,” he told AFP. AFP.
The Lebanese Georges Hobeika also presented some masculine looks such as a gray set, pants, shirt, tie, coat accessorized with a mini-pocket.
Dutchman Ronald van der Kemp has been doing unisex couture since the creation of the house in 2024 because he likes “eccentric people”.
“Gender fluidity has its place in haute couture. It’s time,” French fashion designer Julien Fournié told AFP.
He “opened the subject” on Tuesday by scrolling Romain Brau, actor, performer and LGBT figure. Crowned with a tiara on his long red hair, he wore a giant farthingale while the women had militarized looks.
” Strong potential “
“Men want to dress in haute couture,” he says.
“Those with purchasing power go to London to have a tuxedo or bespoke suits made which remain very classic. They want fantasy, embroidery, highly crafted leather pieces,” adds Julien Fournié.
A week of men’s haute couture, is it possible? “I wouldn’t venture on these paths”, says Serge Carreira for whom these looks remain marginal for the moment.
“We are not there yet, but in a few years why not,” said Pierre Alexandre M’Pelé, adding that this phenomenon has “strong potential”.
The Italian house Dolce & Gabanna, for example, already has “alta moda” and “alta sartoria” (couture tailoring) fashion shows for those “who want to show off and have the means to do so”.
And if we don’t see men dressed in couture in the street, “it’s because they have much more extravagant lives than ours,” he concludes.