Presentation
ILLUSTRATION PASCALINE LEFEBVRE, THE PRESS
Co-owner of the company Vers forêt, whose mission is to introduce forest edibles, Xavier Mantha nicknames the cattail the “convenience plant.” Why? “Because there are many edible parts in the cattail.” However, if you harvest this plant, which consists of a long stem, ribbon-like leaves and spike-shaped flowers, to eat it, you have to choose your picking location carefully. “The cattail is a bioaccumulator of pollution and heavy metals. You have to make sure you pick it in lakes or rivers where there is not too much human activity.”
Picking
ILLUSTRATION PASCALINE LEFEBVRE, LA PRESSE
June is the ideal time to harvest cattail hearts. To do so, you don’t have to worry about getting wet. “Sometimes, I’m up to my belly button in water,” laughs Xavier Mantha. This “fairly sporty” harvest is done in the mud, often among flies. “We take the cattail at the base, then pull on it at a slight angle.” By leaving the rhizomes, or horizontal roots, in place, we allow new shoots to emerge, he explains. Very abundant in certain regions of Quebec, the cattail is however sensitive to invasion by the common reed. It is best to avoid picking it where there is strong competition.
Taste
ILLUSTRATION PASCALINE LEFEBVRE, THE PRESS
Before you can enjoy the cattail hearts, you have to peel the harvested plant – you can make baskets with the leaves, for example. You remove the fibrous layers until you reach the heart, which is white and tender. To eat this part, you have to pick the cattail before it flowers, otherwise its center will be too hard. “You can eat the heart fresh. It’s very good in salads, blanched in an omelette or just like that,” lists Xavier Mantha. Through Vers forêt, he sells cattail hearts marinated in cider vinegar with sea salt. The taste is similar to that of palm hearts.
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