Five years ago, Guillaume Coudray investigated the impact of nitrites, present in meat, on the health of consumers. Today, he denounces the industries that continue to use it, despite the proven dangers.
“From the moment they can do without nitrites, why they keep doing nitrites, I don’t understand”, explains Guillaume Coudray. The author had investigated 5 years ago on the addition of nitrites in industrial meat, and in particular the risks that this engenders for the health of consumers. This February 15, he publishes a new book, “Nitrites in charcuterie: the scandal”, where it is based on new studies.
“The government’s response is: let’s wait for the report from ANSES, the French health agency. Then finally, the ANSES report concluded that nitrated sausages, yes, presented a specific risk of colon cancer. The government said let’s now wait for the EFSA report [Autorité européenne de sécurité des aliments]. The EFSA, likewise, last fall, said that, yes, there was a specific risk with certain nitrosated compounds in charcuterie. Each time, we postpone, we postpone, we postpone…”, he explains.
“They want to win it both ways”
In stores, two ranges are offered, meats without nitrites and with. “When I did the first survey, Bayonne ham without nitrates, without nitrites, had practically disappeared. For 3-4 years, a lot of manufacturers have started making Bayonne ham without nitrates, without nitrites. They are rebuilding dryers, they are maturing for a long time… What is counter-intuitive is that here, for example, we have a Bayonne without nitrated additives, €3.75 for 6 slices. Another Bayonne ham, which is more expensive… Saltpetre. Saltpeter is another name for potassium nitrate. In terms of additive, the cheaper the better.”
But why do they continue these two ranges, if a risk of cancer has been proven? “It’s actually because they want to have it both ways. They want to have a somewhat premium range, non-nitrated, non-nitrated, for, let’s say, informed people. And then for buyers who continue to buy nitrated deli meats, continue to manufacture deli meats that are a little cheaper, with a longer shelf life, but with a higher risk of cancer”, adds Guillaume Coudray.