Greece | The authenticity of the Saronic Islands

Even if the islands of the Saronic Gulf – Hydra, Aegina, Poros and Spetses – are the closest to Athens, they remain little frequented by tourists, apart from the Greeks themselves. Do as the locals do, and let yourself be charmed by these excursion sites that will delight travelers in search of authenticity.

Divine Hydra

“Would you like to reserve a donkey? This is the message I received a few days before our arrival in Hydra, an island located in the Aegean Sea, an hour and a half by hydrofoil from Athens, from the port of Piraeus.

A donkey ? “It’s to carry your luggage,” replies the lady in charge of our Airbnb housing reception. “I recommend it, because the apartment is located in the heights of Hydra! So the donkey was waiting for us when we got off the boat.

These animals are part of Hydra’s charm. In this island, one has the impression that time has frozen. There are no cars, no bikes, no motorized vehicles, and that’s what makes this island magical. Only the donkeys transport suitcases and goods in the heights of the village. We move on foot or by water taxi to go from one place to another.

Arriving, we discover this picturesque village, the port, the cafes, the taverns, the shops and the pretty white houses perched on the hill. The alleys are narrow and flowered with bright pink bougainvilleas, the cats, numerous, roam through the steep little streets. We walk, we stroll in the cafes of the port to observe the arrivals of yachts and cruise passengers who, for a day, visit Hydra, then leave at sunset. The island then becomes calm again. We take the opportunity to have an aperitif at the Hydronetta bar, a must nestled in a cliff where you can swim. The view is breathtaking, and the light of the sunset, simply divine.

The island that has charmed generations of artists

We understand why Leonard Cohen fell in love with this island in 1960; he bought a house there, and it was there that he met Marianne Ihlen, his lover and muse, for whom he wrote the famous song So Long Marianne. The small street where his house is located, in the heights of Hydra, now bears his name, and elsewhere in the village, a bench has been named in his honor. And for those who wish to live a bit like the singer-songwriter, he used to frequent Xeri Elia Douskos Restaurant, a family-owned tavern that has been around for 200 years and has remained authentic. Located a little away from the port, on a small square under a flowery arbor, it offers the classics of Greek cuisine, fresh fish, grilled meats, Greek salad, moussaka and tzatziki.

Long before Leonard Cohen, in the 1930s Hydra attracted poets and artists such as the Greek cubist painter Níkos Khatzikyriákos-Ghíkas, who made Hydra his refuge. American writer Henry Miller described the island as “aesthetically perfect”. Pablo Picasso, Maria Callas or even Sofia Loren participated in Hydra’s fame; the latter shot the film there shadows under the sea (Boy on a Dolphin) in 1957.

Last summer, the famous American artist Jeff Koons came to inaugurate his exhibition Apollo at the DESTE Art Foundation, located in the former Hydra slaughterhouses, by the sea. A foundation that belongs to Dakis Joannou, a Greek businessman and one of the greatest collectors of contemporary art in the world.

Today, although Hydra attracts many tourists, but also millionaires who come by yacht, the place has remained intact. The atmosphere is unique and laid-back in this jewel of the Saronic Islands, where just over 2000 people call home during the year.

We do not go to Hydra for the beauty of its beaches. Even if the water is crystal clear, you should know that there are no long sandy beaches. We bathe in small creeks, or from rocks where ladders have been installed to help us go up. Some pebble beaches are lovely, like Plakes (our favorite), where the Four Seasons hotel is located (nothing to do with the luxury chain). You can get there from the port by boat (or on foot, a 35-40 minute walk), you can rent deckchairs and parasols there, and its Tassia tavern, on the beach, is really worth the detour! There are also the beaches of Vlychos and Mandraki which can be reached by walking from the center of Hydra (20 minutes).

Attractions to visit

• In the center of Hydra Port stands the Clock Tower. You can visit the monastery of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, founded in 1643, and the Byzantine-style cathedral.
• The Lazaros Koundouriotis museum is to be discovered. This historic and majestic residence overlooking the city belonged to the shipowner of the same name who played an important role during the Greek War of Independence. The museum relates the history of Hydra in addition to presenting a collection of paintings by Greek painters and traditional costumes.
• For horse lovers, it is possible to take a ride with the friendly Harriet Jarman, from Harriet’s Horses, who offers different courses on the island. Walkers are also spoiled in Hydra, since they can make great hikes and embark on the discovery of monasteries. Warning: in the heart of summer, it is very hot!
• As for good addresses, we recommend The Cool Mule ice cream parlor, on the port, the popular and inexpensive restaurant…kay Kremmydi! (“…and Onion! in English), where you can eat delicious gyros on the terrace, and the very chic Sunset restaurant, with a magnificent view of the sea.
• Where to stay ? We opted for rented accommodation on the Airbnb platform; there are several in Hydra in small houses and apartments with lovely harbor views. There are also a few hotels, including the Bratsera (with swimming pool) and the Orloff Boutique Hotel, located in a historic house from 1796.
• Daily departures by boat link Hydra to Athens, from the port of Piraeus.

Island charm

Visited one after the other or individually, the islands of Aegina, Poros and Spetses offer lively and busy ports, each with their own particular charm. Follow the leader.

Aegina and its pistachios

The closest island to Athens – 50 minutes by speedboat – relies on harvesting and selling pistachios to attract tourists. Along the main artery of the port, there are many buying kiosks for this fruit. Raw or cooked pistachios, lemon, paprika… We stock up before setting off to explore this 87 km island². We prefer renting a car to renting a scooter or a bicycle, since we are in mountainous terrain. In a few hours, we visit the temple of Aphea – built in 448 BC. J.-C. –, the monastery of Agios Nektarios – second church of the country by its size – and we finish at the edge of the sea on one of the beaches of Agia Marina. It is not the most exotic island, of course, but Aegina allows you to quickly escape the Athenian tumult and the tourism of large cruises, and this is a great merit.

Poros, its tower and its beaches

Two islands connected by a bridge – the city Sfairía and the country Kalavria – form Poros, an archipelago popular with Athenians and also with Peloponnesians, since the port of Galata is only 10 minutes away by ferry. So, yes, there are crowds. But the port of Poros being built in floors, one can quickly flee the tourist pack. To do this, just climb and get lost in the maze of high streets, towards the clock tower, which dominates the port. At the foot of said tower, a view of the gulf, the island of Kalavria, the port and the Peloponnese. We come here especially at the end of the day, when the sun hits the white houses with ocher roofs and makes the turquoise water of the bay sparkle. We do not visit Poros for its historical attractions, but for its sandy and wild beaches which stretch along the edge of the island of Kalavria. Just choose well and enjoy the warm rays of the sun.

Spetses, the island of flowers

We let ourselves be led by the nose to Spetsès: there are indeed thousands of jasmines and colorful bougainvillea and, at the end of the day, while the inhabitants water their gardens, their perfume fills the air. The local population – about 4,000 people – resides mainly around the port. Normal: there is no drinking water on the island and it therefore arrives by boat at the first rays of the day. This of course has drawbacks, but also a definite advantage: besides the port, the rest of the island is deserted – and deserted – and remains largely wild. Lovers of hiking and solitary swimming – in creeks and lifeless caves… besides the presence of many fish! – will be delighted. Yes, you can rent scooters, mopeds or (electric) bicycles to visit this small island of 22 km², but we favor walking through the pine forests. Thus, we visit many small churches hidden between the pines and we stroll at our own pace in the old port, located on the other side of the bay.